Nachhaltige Emollients: ein von der Natur und Emotionen inspiriertes Bekenntnis

Emollients sind unverzichtbare Bestandteile kosmetischer Formulierungen und verleihen den fertigen Produkten durch ihre technische Leistungsfähigkeit, Performance und sensorischen Anziehungskraft eine besondere Note. Auf dem Kosmetikmarkt gibt es eine Fülle von...

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SEPAWA® CONGRESS 2022 

 

Speaker: Dr. Vicky De Groof

Company: Holiferm

Title: Sustainable Manufacturing of Biosurfactants: Sophorolipids

Abstract: The commercial interest in biosurfactants is rising rapidly. Major formulators have made strong commitments to expand their green, bio-based product portfolio while eliminating petrochemicals. Biosurfactants are a sustainable replacement for petrochemical-derived surfactants. They also show more favourable characteristics for use in personal care, home care and agriculture, such as their mildness, moisturizing properties, and biodegradability. However, high production costs via traditional batch processes are hindering biosurfactants to become economically viable across the full market range. We present our innovative technology and the assessments we carried out to proof it is an economical and environmental improvement, key to meaningfully building a sustainable surfactant industry. Using interdisciplinary research, we created and scaled up a cheaper, but also a more sustainable production method for sophorolipids known under the assigned INCI name of “Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Rapeseed Oil Ferment Extract”. Our patented integrated fermentation and gravity-based separation technique increases productivity of sophorolipids to >5.5 g l-1 h-1 and titer to > 1000 g l-1, thus dramatically reducing production costs. A life cycle assessment shows a circa 1.5 tonne reduction in CO2 Global Warming Potential (GWP) per tonne active product compared to petrochemical surfactants. The process uses >50% less energy in comparison to traditional sophorolipid processes. The LCA indicated raw materials were the main contributor to total GWP (>70%), thus, highlighting the next step forward to improve process sustainability, e.g., investigating alternative feedstock such as industry by-products or waste streams. Biodegradability assessments (OECD 301B) confirmed that sophorolipids are readily biodegradable in a natural, non-storage, environment. By using an in-vitro test the mildness of sophorolipids was confirmed as a non-irritant mild on skin up to 48 hours after application. We have demonstrated our technology with two additional biosurfactants, and identified its suitability with a range of bioproducts, thus showing the potential for a platform technology.

Interviews

You launched two new ingredients at in-Cos. Please tell us more on the name and function.
Firstly, at In-Cosmetics Global 2024 we have introduced a new line in our technology...

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Product Launches

Nouryon, a global specialty chemicals leader, announced the launch of a new biodegradable personal care technology, Structure® M3 co-surfactant, at the 2024 in-cosmetics Global event in Paris, France. This new innovation enhances the functionality and appeal of a wide...

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