Is Repair of Lightened Hair Feasible? Myths and Facts on Different Hair Bonding Treatments

T. Förster, T. Hippe, G. Knübel

With bright blond hair colors becoming more fashionable in recent years, prevention or even repair of hair damage byWith bright blond hair colors becoming more fashionable in recent years, prevention or even repair of hair damage bylightening has become a strong consumer need. Leading edge research of structural changes in keratin caused by strongoxidative stress has led to several approaches how to counteract this oxidative damage by ingredients capable to form bondsbetween adjacent keratin chains. An overview presents several ingredients used already in market products acting via differentmode-of-actions of keratin bonding. For the class of organic di-acids experimental evidence is given, showing protectionof keratin during oxidative damage perceivable also by consumers. Results of tensile strength evaluations as well as multiplegrooming tests and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and finally test salon evaluations support the hypothesis that certaindi-acids like maleic acid or succinic acid are able to bridge adjacent keratin chains via ionic interactions and/or hydrogen bonds.

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