Performance Analysis of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in Hair Care Applications

T. Oliphant, R. Harper

This research explores the hair care benefits of hydrolyzed jojoba esters; an ingredient most commonly used in skin care formulationsThis research explores the hair care benefits of hydrolyzed jojoba esters; an ingredient most commonly used in skin care formulationsfor its film-forming attributes and ability to fix small, active molecules (e.g. glycerin, titanium dioxide, and dihydroxyacetone)on the skin surface for long-lasting effects. It is difficult to find natural ingredient options that function similarly to siliconesand quaternary nitrogen compounds, which are often used in hair care products to provide color and heat protection, reductionsin wet and dry comb force, or frizz control and shine. A series of ex vivo, vehicle-controlled, double-blind studies were performedto characterize the performance benefits of incorporating hydrolyzed jojoba esters into rinse-off shampoo and conditioner products.The results indicate that hydrolyzed jojoba esters indeed have a beneficial effect within rinse-off hair care applications. Theyremained deposited on the hair after rinsing, and were able to provide the following statistically significant benefits: reductions inwet comb force and frizz, less hair dye fading, and increased consumer perception of healthy appearance of hair, volume, smoothness/sleekness, overall product performance, frizz management, shine, softness, and hair hydration. Hydrolyzed jojoba esters offerformulators an effective natural alternative to provide functions and benefits traditionally produced by synthetic compounds.

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