A New Multifunctional Ingredient for Formulators: Bringing Innovation in Cosmetics through the Instigation of Nature

P. Maréchal, N. Loubat-Bouleuc, M. Villedieu, F. Merlaud

The use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types ofThe use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types ofestolides were synthetized by ingredient manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of synthesis ofthese intermolecular esters can be considered, depending on the raw materials.We developed a new estolide ester, based on castor oil, engineered with as few transformations as possible, showing a greatversatility in applications for cosmetic formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. The performances of this innovative polymeringredient, dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, were screened through a sensorial panel and instruments.Our estolide ester brings a broad range of properties as texturizing or film-forming agent, and moisturizer. It also shows interestingvalues as a pigment disperser. During application on hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give high protectiveproperties from air pollution.The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%.Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester ofestolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint.

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