EN 
Zellulin®: Pioneering Biotechnology for Advanced Skincare Solutions
Interview with Dr Mario Chin
Chief Scientific Officer of Avant
What is Zellulin® BioPlatform?
The Zellulin® BioPlatform is a groundbreaking, patented biotechnology platform designed to produce a new generation of cell-identical multi-peptides. The first product derived from this platform is Zellulin®ZelluGENTM, a biopeptide complex sourced from fish cells.
Zellulin® BioPlatform Bioprocess:
- Initial Cell Cultivation: The process begins with cells taken from a single fish to establish a seed cell culture. This step is conducted only once, meaning that just one fish is required to generate the starting culture for all future production. This eliminates the need for repeated animal sourcing and minimizes environmental impact.
- Bioreactor Cultivation: A small number of starting cells are transferred into a bioreactor, which is a sterile, controlled environment designed to mimic the natural growth conditions for the cells. The cells are nourished with a nutrient-rich, animal-component-free formula.
- Cell Growth: The fish cells continue to grow and double approximately every 1.5 days, which leads to an exponential increase in their numbers. Over just a few weeks, this process generates a large volume of cells, significantly more efficiently than traditional methods that would require months for a fish to grow.
- Extraction and Hydrolysis: Once the fish cells have grown to the desired quantity, they are carefully harvested and washed. The cell extracts are then obtained using physical methods, which avoids the use of harmful chemicals. These extracts are hydrolyzed—broken down into peptides that are easier for the skin to absorb. The result is a biopeptide complex that is identical to those naturally found in cells and is highly effective in skincare applications.
What is “cell-identical” “multi-peptides”?
Our body obtains amino acids from food, and these amino acids are then used as building blocks by cells to create proteins. Some proteins are structural elements. Some proteins are medium of communication between cells; these signaling proteins instruct cells to perform their designated tasks.
The human body produces over 100,000 different types of proteins, and each has a unique function. Together, they work harmoniously to ensure the body operates efficiently.
The term "cell-identical" refers to peptides that are of identical configuration as the natural proteins produced by the body. This biological compatibility allows the peptides to interact more effectively with the skin's cells.
“Multi-peptides" refers to the mixture of peptides, each playing a different role but all working together to support the skin. Cells produce different types of proteins in specific amounts and proportions to ensure proper function. “Cell-identical” “multi-peptides” refers to the exact mix of peptides that cells produce.
How does "Cell-identical” “multi-peptides” contribute to skin health?
As we grow older, the collagen fibrils in our skin start to break down and become disorganized, contributing to the aging of our skin. Therefore, maintaining healthy collagen production is crucial for preserving youthful skin.
Signaling proteins are vital for healthy collagen metabolism. They facilitate the production, organization, and maintenance of collagen fibrils, which are crucial for the skin's structural integrity. Examples of signaling proteins in Zellulin® ZelluGENTM important for skin health include but are not limited to, Decorin, Fibulin, Lumican, and Connective Tissue Growth Factor.
Why is Zellulin® special?
Before Zellulin®, there was no commercially viable method to produce cell-identical multi-peptides. The biological makeup of Plantae differs significantly from that of Animalia, meaning peptides derived from plants are not biologically similar to those produced by animal cells.
Many signaling proteins appear in animal tissues in only minute amounts, making traditional chemical extraction from animal sources insufficient to harness them.
Synthetic peptides are neither bioidentical nor capable of supporting multiple cellular pathways.
Although single protein molecules produced through recombinant technology are biologically similar, they represent only one of the hundreds of signaling proteins necessary for comprehensive biological function. As a result, the benefits are limited, and the risk of overdosing is higher.
With advancements in biotechnology, it is now possible to produce cell-identical multi-peptides. Zellulin®BioPlatform is the pioneering patented technology that makes this breakthrough a reality.
What makes Zellulin® BioPlatform sustainable?
The technology enables the production of a large number of fish cells from a single fish. Manufacturing does not require animal-based inputs, allowing us to benefit from cell-identical multi-peptides without depleting marine resources. This approach helps preserve marine life and biodiversity.
Additionally, Zellulin® ZelluGENTM has a 98% lower greenhouse gas footprint compared to traditional bovine collagen and a 75% lower GHG footprint compared to traditional marine collagen.
Is Zellulin considered vegan?
The company’s mission is to reduce dependency on animals for our lifestyle needs while still benefiting from the biologically similar materials from animal proteins through cell-cultivation methods. Zellulin® is not tested on animal and is non-GMO.
Aside from the seed fish cells we used, all other manufacturing inputs are animal-component-free. However, we would not define it as vegan, and the label "vegan" would not fairly represent the functions of Zellulin®.
With technological advancement, standards have also evolved. V-label, which certifies vegan products, has launched C-Label for cell-cultivated products to provide similar accreditation to products made sustainably and humanely.
In a consumer perception test conducted by a third-party lab in the US, 92% are open or extremely open to consuming skincare products containing ingredients derived from fish cells that are produced sustainably. The study did not find that "vegan" was a deciding factor in this case.
Additionally, more than half of them said that knowing the cell technology behind the ingredient made them more interested in purchasing the product.
Which applications do you recommend for your biopeptide complexes?
A placebo-controlled efficacy study conducted on 60 subjects using an eye cream containing 1% Zellulin®ZelluGEN™ active, applied twice daily for 28 days, established that Zellulin® ZelluGEN™ can:
- Increase skin hydration
- Decrease trans-epidermal water loss
- Improve skin elasticity
- Enhance skin tightness
- Boost dermal intensity
In a separate consumer perception blind test involving 39 subjects using a rich cream with 1% Zellulin®ZelluGEN™ active, 64% of testers reported seeing significant changes in their skin within two weeks.
Zellulin® ZelluGEN™ is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into various formulas.
