Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid for Topical Cosmetic Applications

I. Dolečková, J. Bystroňová, M. Marešová, V. Hrobař, P. Šedová, M. Čepa, O. Židek, Z. Dušková, M. Pravda, R. Buffa

Crosslinked hyaluronic acid-based hydrogels (crossHA) have been widely used in the cosmetic industry as injectable dermalCrosslinked hyaluronic acid-based hydrogels (crossHA) have been widely used in the cosmetic industry as injectable dermalfillers. However, HA hydrogels also emerge as interesting raw materials for cosmetic topical products with various otherpotential benefits. In this work, we developed and characterized a new type of crossHA (crossHA-3; INCI Sodium HyaluronateCrosspolymer-3) in a powder form dedicated for the topical cosmetic application and tested its properties in vitro and in vivoon human volunteers.CrossHA-3 powder is fully soluble in water creating a soft hydrogel microparticle suspension macroscopically resembling truesolution. Large amount of water absorbed in the porous structure of crossHA-3 effectively moisturizes the skin in vivo. Cross-HA-3 also creates a protective film on the skin surface and immediately and visibly reduces even deep mimic wrinkles. BecausecrossHA-3 is less susceptible to enzymatic degradation than HA, it stays longer on the skin surface and so its anti-wrinkle effectis prolonged. Beside water, crossHA-3 can absorb various cosmetic active ingredients in its pores and ensures their continuous,long-term delivery into the skin leading to their more effective utilization by the skin cells as we showed in another in vivo studyusing niacinamide (vitamin B3) as a model cosmetic active ingredient.

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