Natural Oil and Ester Mixture as a High-performing, Sustainable Alternative to Silicone Oils in Hair Care

Non-volatile silicone oils are widely used in hair care products (e.g. shampoos, conditioners). They bring a pronounced conditioning effect and shine, but have poor biodegradability. The contemporary consumer prefers quality products, which are also natural and eco-friendly. This motivates the development of silicone alternatives, which are bio-sourced and biodegradable. In the current article we study a mixture of two ingredients (natural oil and ester), and its potential to replace silicone as a conditioning active in hair care. The mixtures were studied both in sulfated and sulfate-free shampoo formulations. The formulations were clear and with good stability on storage (>3 months, up to 45°C). The performance of the formulations was evaluated via in vitro (e.g., wet and dry combing) and in vivo methods (sensorial panels). The mixture of avocado oil and isoamyl laurate performed particularly well (DermalcareR AVOLIA MB) exhibiting similar performance as amodimethicone in conducted tests. The effect was attributed to a partial restoration of the hydrophobicity of damaged hair by the oil & ester mixture. The excellent sustainability profile, good formulation and conditioning properties, make this ingredient a very good candidate for a green alternative to silicone.