Interview with Òscar Expósito, CEO & Co-founder, Vytrus Biotech
Òscar Expósito, CEO & Co-founder
Dr. Expósito, Vytrus Biotech has launched 2 new active ingredients despite the Covid-19 crisis. What do these novelties consist of?
KANNABIA SENSE is a new Cannabis plant stem cell active that stimulates the skin microbiota to produce a positive in-situ postbiotic that ignites the synthesis of cutaneous oxytocin. This oxytocin connects with the brain turning into a well-being response. Such process activates the brain pleasure centres, induces a better self-perception and positive emotional parameters, what ends up in a healthier and prettier skin.
We have developed a unique raw material made from Cannabis sativa stem cells, a plant with amazing properties!
On the other hand, DEOBIOME NONI consists of a new active made from Morinda citrifolia stem cells that introduces the concept of biological deodorant. By combining an innovative prebiotic technology and the latest advances in plant stem cell technology in the skin microbiota treatment, it has been demonstrated how to modulate the body malodour while being respectful with the skin microbiota and its ecosystem.
Both cosmetic actives are based on the study and treatment of the microbiota and we have tests that demonstrate their microbiota-respectful profile. From Vytrus, we really think that this field of research has a huge potential in cosmetics, as the microbiota plays a key role on skin health and it is not just a short-lived trend.
What are the main clinical results and what cosmetic applications are behind each ingredient?
In the in vivo trials for KANNABIA SENSE and for the first time in Cosmetics, we applied the functional Magnetic Resonance Image (fMRI) to the volunteers, a sophisticated technique that measures changes in brain activity associated with changes in blood flow, which is associated with the neuronal activation of a specific area. The active showed a higher positive brain activation at 15 minutes than placebo and a higher positive activation of the brain pleasure zones at 28 days. Our ingredient demonstrated an activation profile like oxytocin, similar to touch and massage and its emotional effectiveness. This activated brain regions are related to a greater social predisposition and attractiveness of the person!
KANNABIA SENSE also showed an outstanding anti-wrinkle effect on the so-called ‘emotional wrinkles’, very difficult to be treated. We saw an incredible reduction of 44% and 28% in both area and length of wrinkles in Marionette lines and up to 27% and 32% of both area and length of wrinkles in Frown lines.
The active has a wide range of cosmetic applications: happy daily gels and creams, well-being body lotions, delicate facial treatments, restoring night creams, and uplifting massage lotions.
DEOBIOME NONI is a great body malodour reducer and we are witnesses of it thanks to several in vivoassays: first, we analysed more than 100 odorous volatile molecules responsible for body odour by gas chromatography, where the active achieved a 39% average reduction. On the other hand, the active showed a 30% reduction of armpit odour intensity, getting to down to 82% reduction in the best of the volunteers. Then, a third assay also demonstrated a 22% average reduction of feet odour intensity and down to 47% on our volunteers.
DEOBIOME NONI is ready to be applied to many cosmetic formulations: underarm deodorants, feet deodorants, scalp treatments and microbiota rebalancing formulations.
We are very satisfied with the results of these natural ingredients. The cosmetic industry is showing a very positive response to these novelties!
The pandemic has hit the main cosmetic trade shows. How has Vytrus faced this issue and what presence will you have in the coming events?
The sanitary crisis has been a global issue and had an important impact on every single business. However, we need to think positively and see that the pandemic has taught us other ways of relating to one another, working from home, and humanizing the relationship with our collaborators, partners, and clients.
Going 100% digital has been our action plan: massive webinars, e-trade shows, videoconferences with partners, product videos, e-interviews with media partners, and so on. As the coming cosmetic trade shows have been postponed to 2021, we will be present for our partners and clients at digital events such as In-cosmetics global Virtual event in October 6-8, 2020, and SEPAWA Congress this year.
Follow up question – how do you anticipate the cosmetic industry will change in the next year and beyond?
As mentioned before, the pandemic has brought a new global scenario. This means a cut on business trips and physical meetings and a broader digital dimension where the e-change plays a key role. From a sustainability point of view, the Covid-19 crisis and the restriction of people movement brings an opportunity to make the cosmetic industry more sustainable. However, we should also consider the importance of face-to-face relationships in the professional sphere.
Regarding the R&D in the cosmetic field, it is foreseeable that new paradigms will emerge: actives related to protection against viruses or air pollution, and actives that improve your mood after all the stress experienced in the confinement (that is what KANANBIA SENSE addresses). Also, new beauty and makeup rituals may appear considering the mask as a new ‘gadget’, being the mask a potential company for our coming future.