New Concepts for Active Ingredients
Interview with Karsten Lingen, Managing Director and Founder
novoclon GmbH, exclusive distributor and partner of Vytrus Biotech S.A.
You and your exclusive partner Vytrus Biotech have won 1st and 2nd place in the "Best Ingredient Award 2020" of In-Cosmetics. Did you expect this?
No, after last year's first place with Olea Vitae PLF, we did not expect to repeat and even increase our success. We were very happy about the gold and silver place and were really speechless! Unfortunately we could not personally attend in Barcelona due to the current situation, but we celebrated a big web meeting party!
What makes the active ingredients of Vytrus Biotech so outstanding?
Vytrus Biotech has researched and developed innovative and unique concepts for active ingredients. Typically, active ingredients are molecules or plant compounds that are standardized to one or a few individual molecules, such as active molecules like Bisabolol, peptides or vitamins.
We produce our active ingredients through totipotent plant cells, also called plant stem cells. This has several advantages, we can optimize the processes in such a way that we always increase the desired active ingredients and are completely independent of e.g. weather influences. With our Arabian Cotton PRCF, for example, we simulate very high levels of sunlight and the plant cells develop their own natural protection, which we make available to the skin as anti-photoaging (Blue Light). Numerous in vitro and in vivo studies prove that this concept works very well.
This is the first generation of our plant-based high-biotech active ingredients, completely natural, vegan and COSMOS approved.
The first generation? How were these ingredients developed further?
The second generation of Vytrus Biotech active ingredients focused on signaling and messenger molecules of plant cells. This is a very interesting topic. Some people are not aware that plants, but also bacteria, communicate with each other. One example is acacia, which warns its neighbors of the feeding damage caused by giraffes and can thus produce bitter substances to defend against them.
We use this production of signal molecules in many of our products. As an example, in our product Capilia Longa PPF we stimulate the production of signal molecules and growth factors (peptides and others) that the plant cells send out for collective growth. These are identical to those of the cells of the human organism, we can therefore be proven to stimulate hair growth, and we can do so very effectively!
We also use this method in the winner of the "Best Ingredient Award 2019". Here we have stimulated a new group of signal molecules, the signal lipids, in the product Olea Vitae PLF. These signal lipids are responsible for the fusion of the mitochondria, a natural process to increase energy production and stimulate self-repair. We were also able to successfully transfer this to humans as anti-energetic aging, especially for women with a hormonally induced energy deficit due to menopause. It has been proven that we reverse the cell aging process and revitalize the aged skin, making it thicker, and significantly reducing wrinkles.
What is the effect of your two award-winning products?
We won second place with Deobiome Noni PRCF, with which we intervene in the communication of the microbiome. We simulate a bacterial attack on the cell culture and the plant cells produce anti quormones as a defense reaction. Quormones are the communication molecules of the bacteria with which they control their reproduction and virulence. There are not the good and the bad bacteria, this also depends on the number (quorum). Staphylococcus aureus is part of the normal skin flora of humans, but if it is given the opportunity to spread, it can lead to symptoms of disease, skin inflammation, etc..
This spread is controlled by the quormones and our active ingredient prevents this by quorum quenching (QQ). The studies show that we influence the bacteria to produce less bad smelling odor molecules without damaging the microbiome of the skin. We even strengthen the microbiome, maintain diversity and protect against the infestation of pathogenic germs. Our active ingredient is free from aluminum, alcohol or preservatives. This mechanism of action is also used in a second product, Quora Noni PRCF, which is an active ingredient against skin impurities, acne and to refine pores.
Kannabia Sense PLF is the latest generation of active ingredients, follows the highly innovative path of "in situ post biotics" and produces the active ingredients directly on the skin through the microbiome. With the product based on Cannabis Sativa stem cells (THC-free) we control the metabolism of the commensal bacteria in the desired direction. As mentioned before, it is not always possible to distinguish clearly between good and bad bacteria. We make sure that the existing bacteria produce "good" postbiotics directly, in situ, on the skin. In this way the cuddling hormone oxytocin is produced, has a positive effect on the negative state of mind, reduces signs such as anger and marionette wrinkles, and ensures a radiantly beautiful complexion. With the functional MRI (magnetic resonance imaging) we were able to generate a higher neuronal activity in the brain areas of the pleasure zone (Prefrontal Pleasure Center).
This was also shown in another in vivo study where a mood-lifting effect and a reduction of negative sensations and anxiety were demonstrated. Kannabia Sense PLF has a very good compatibility with the microbiome and protects it from pathogenic germs. It acts as a Hyaluron booster, improves skin hydration and has a strong antioxidant effect.
The products of our partner Vytrus Biotech are all vegan, preservative-free, COSMOS certified and completely safe! We have high demands on the sustainability of our production, e.g. we reduce water, fertilizer and soil consumption by manufacturing in the laboratory and are independent of harvest times and negative environmental influences.
What other trends do you see in cosmetics?
Sustainability and naturalness are other important trends. We work exclusively with the company Biogründl. They produce plant extracts and pay particular attention to the origin and quality. We have extracts with exact geographical location information and a whole range of COSMOS certified extracts from controlled organic cultivation. A special feature of Biogründl is that they have their own farm for the cultivation of their plants, so the whole production process is in one hand. We also have organic essential oils for aromatherapy and a 100% natural and registered insect repellent with long term effects. We always look for trustworthy suppliers and reliable supply and production chains.
For the next year we have many more news in the pipeline and are looking forward to the challenges and further innovative products!