How to Naturally Relieve all Consumers From the Discomfort Caused by Oily Skin
Interview with Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager
Givaudan Active Beauty
Mr. Rolland, can you explain how Mangixyl™ answer to consumers commitments?
In an era where sustainability and traceability are top of mind for consumers, the sourcing story of Mangixyl™ highlights the commitment of Givaudan Purpose to create for happier, healthier lives with love for nature. The mango leaves are collected in collaboration with the Association Bendia, based in Koro village (Burkina Faso, Africa). The association is a women-led initiative to contribute to the improvement of the living conditions of the community. Reflecting the company commitment to inclusive beauty, Mangixyl™ is a genderless, universal ingredient that is suitable for all age groups and skin tones.
How does Mangixyl™ bring an answer to a skin issue that is touching a huge part of consumers around the world?
If sometimes the sebum can be perceived as an enemy for the skin appearance, it’s important to keep in mind that its balance is essential. Indeed, the sebum is an essential part of skin health, since it participates to the hydration of the epidermis and contributes to the suppleness and softness of the epidermis. By crafting Mangixyl™, a powerful microbiome-friendly cosmetic ingredient with proven efficacy targeting oily skin through sebum regulation, Givaudan Active Beauty aims to relieve consumers from the discomfort caused by oily skin.
Can you tell us more about Mangixyl™ mechanism?
Mangixyl™ interacts with some receptors of the retinoic acid-regulated genes pathway and decreases the synthesis of lipids on all skin ethnicities. To evaluate the benefits of the ingredient, three clinical tests were conducted in double blind versus placebo, on volunteers from different skin complexions: African (South Africa), Asian (China) and Caucasian (Europe). The measurement of sebum quantity was done on cheeks and nose area at D0 and D28 by sebumeter or sebufix. The tested product was a cream, applied twice a day on the face, containing 1% Mangixyl™ for Caucasian volunteers and 2% of active for Asian and African volunteers. It appears that Mangixyl™ significantly reduces, globally twice better than placebo, the quantity of sebum in only one month for all skin complexions, thus reducing shininess. The skin quality of the volunteers was assessed by analysing the barrier function quality (TEWL) using a Tewameter®. It appears that while reducing the amount of sebum, Mangixyl™ significantly improves the skin barrier function after 28 days. Double-blind tests versus placebo studies have also shown a 49.5% improvement in sebum quality through a better triglyceride/fatty acid ratio.
Is Mangixyl™ also efficient on prone-to-acne skin?
Prone-to-acne skin is a multifactorial condition, leading to pimples and irritation, and involving Cutibacterium acnes increase of activity and an excess of sebum production. This is why Mangixyl™ was also tested on those factors related to acne. During in vitro test, Mangixyl™ showed a 29% inhibitory action on C. acnes lipase activity.
In the double blind versus placebo clinical study performed on European women with oily skin, a significant reduction by x2.4 of porphyrins intensity is observed (versus placebo) for 80% of volunteers, reflecting the change of C.acnes metabolism on the skin of volunteers, after one month with Mangixyl™ at 1%. Relative abundance evolution of different bacterial genera showed that Mangixyl™ at 1% protected the skin microbiota over time, whereas the placebo group showed a skin dysbiosis.
Each launch by Givaudan Active Beauty has an extra edge. What is the one for Mangixyl™?
To demonstrate the efficacy of our active ingredient, our team develop S3D®Womango, the all-complexion skin mattifier. Thanks to its three levels of action, this lightweight mattifying day cream immediately reduces shine, balances sebum production all day long and reduces excess sebum over time – offering consumers a helping hand in their journey towards a clearer complexion. It’s our definition of going the extra mile to inspire the beauty industry.