Nature-based Emollients for a Twist of Sensoriality
Interview with Alessandra Adduci, Product Manager
Your company motto is to enhance human’s life-quality by linking science and environmental preservation in the best way possible. Sustainability, green and clean are the current catch phrases. What is really involved to be a supplier of clean, eco-conscious beauty products?
At ROELMI HPC, we are balancing resources to empower the planet harmony. ROELMI HPC is the partner company committed to driving innovation in the Health & Personal Care markets. As a pioneer of sustainability-driven innovations, ROELMI HPC strictly adopts an approach directed to environmental preservation, towards the biodiversity safeguard and the use of renewable sources. All those drivers are collected together to live the market following our NIP® program concretely. People and environment safety are crucial components of our philosophy, moving every process and project development.
With our motto "The Empowerment of the ecosystem", we celebrate the euphony behind our process and the assets we employ in our operations, a brand-new approach to allow the development of compounds to achieve the well-being of the entire ecosystem, from the skin to the planet's harmony.
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Esters are often used in skin care products. You offer 3 different lines for skin care. What is their common attribute?
The success of a formulation depends largely on the sensory features and skin feel that the user experiences during and after the application. If the experience is perceived as unpleasant or perhaps the texture results sticky, it will not satisfy the consumer. The sensory attributes can be precisely regulated by the correct selection of raw materials to meet the user's needs.
Starting with a strong desire to achieve 100% Sustainability without compromising performances, ROELMI HPC has created an interesting portfolio of innovative and unique sensory esters.
They are characterized by a wide sensorial spectrum and different technical features (for example, in terms of polarity, spreadability and dispersing ability of UV filters or pigments). Alone or in synergy, they make a new generation of highly sophisticated cosmetics, for sensoriality and performance. A natural background, which begins with the valorization of noble by-products from the food chain and/or the cultivation of local crops in marginal lands, draws the history of these ingredients. Those ingredients have been developed following the circular economy and upcycling production processes, involving:
- a) Olive oil by-products not intended for food use (Olifeel®Line)
- b) Vegetable oils extracted from low energy demand and underutilized oil crops (EMotion®and BeauSens®Line)
What are their special properties?
ROELMI HPC’s esters selection helps formulators to transform their creativity into unique products that stand out in the market and can satisfy every type of demand, in terms of performance and in line with the latest trends.
Each of them is characterized by specific features: sophisticated texture, application and finish.
Olifeel® SKin and Olifeel® Glow are the ideal choice when formulator has to create more consistency textures with a longer playtime for mature or dry skin and baby care products. Due to their high affinity for the skin they also work to carry a particular lipophilic active, acting as real boosters of penetration.
EMotion® Light and EMotion® Silky can be included to achieve an even lighter and silky texture. BeauSens® Air is the perfect combination of evanescence and comfort, a unique touch very close to silicone (like Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone). It leaves a lightweight nude skin feel with no residue and a matt finish on the skin. It can be applied in sun care applications to improve the sensory touch from an oily and greasy perception on skin towards an improved and appealing skin feel. In fact, dry touch is well researched by consumers with oily or combination skin requiring a lightweight, refreshing product that can be quickly absorbed for a natural-looking finish.
In the make-up world, esters from ROELMI HPC are the perfect support as binders of powders and pigments, facilitating the compaction process, and improving the product performances in terms of coverage, uniformity and color intensity.
Looking at hair care world, EMotion® and BeauSens® Air have been tested demonstrating an improved hair combing, brightness, a reduced frizz effect and a fast and easy spreadability. Results also confirmed by hairstylists in saloon.
Figure 1: Qualitative sensorial profile of esters in terms of evanescence and richness. Credit ROELMI HPC
How do your products fit in the cradle-to-grave standard?
ROELMI HPC’S esters selection represents the responsible alternative for sustainable cosmetics. Characterized by high performances and totally safe, they are the next-gen compounds since today for tomorrow cosmetics.
They are natural-derived (according to ISO 16128) and tested for the biodegradability behavior (OECD test 301B). Demonstrating a unique high purity and sustainability features, standing as biodegradable replacement to silicones for specific applications with a wide range of sensorial performances, they can be the ingredients that make the difference in the toolbox of each formulator.