Cristalhyal® e-Perfection: Clay-vectorised HA for Skin Perfectness
Interview with Mathias Fleury, Head of Category - Actives,
Givaudan Active Beauty
How does Cristalhyal® e-Perfection bring the cosmetic benefits expected by the consumers?
Cristalhyal® e-Perfection brings together two hero ingredients of the Beauty industry: hyaluronic acid and clay. With this complex, consumers can enjoy synergistic benefits from popular ingredients which they’re mostly educated about, in a clean and natural formula they can trust. The flash effect of Cristalhyal® e-Perfection and its immediate gratification in terms of well-ageing and skin perfectness makes it perfect to boost the self-image and confidence of consumers, after a tiring and challenging period for the skin. Additionally, thanks to its constituents, the ingredient acts as a sensoriality booster, bringing softness to the formula, together with a satin-touch. Vegan, China-certified, halal and with 100% natural origin content, every consumer regardless of its localisation, complexion or ethnicity can enjoy the benefits of the next generation of hyaluronic acid, to be experienced in anti-ageing products, well-ageing serums, or in the newly-trending skin perfector category!
What makes this ingredient a new generation of HA?
It is well known that small molecular weight HA penetrates the skin epidermis in topical application. However, high molecular weight (HMW) HA, which offers the best hydration benefits, does not spontaneously penetrate, preventing long-lasting benefits. To help HMW HA penetrates into the skin, a task which may appear impossible at first, it is possible to use electrostatic interactions, in a method inspired by iontophoresis where the use of a device generating electrical microcurrents promotes penetration of active molecules into the epidermis by modulating their charges. Adapting ingredient composition also is another way to influence the electric charge of the HA molecule, without the use of a device. To this end, we identified bentonite, a clay sourced in the Mediterranean basin with a distinct lamellar structure. Thanks to a patented and proprietary process, bentonite can be activated to entrap efficiently molecules of HMW HA. This results in a complex between clay and HA, where HA molecules are strongly negatively charged (even more than the native HA salt), and thus benefit from a stronger electrical attraction from the skin’s deep layers. This innovation gave birth to Cristalhyal® e-Perfection, naturally vectorising HMW HA into the skin, reaching performances never achieved before!
With this innovation we expect impressive benefits for the consumers. Can you share them with us?
First of all, Cristalhyal® e-Perfection demonstrated a significant boost of the skin’s hydration, way better than HA alone (+98% after 8 hours, versus +47% for HA alone), but mostly, the hydration is here to stay, thanks to the penetration of the molecule into the epidermis. We demonstrated that 24 hours after application, the benefits in terms of hydration were still there (+108%) while the hydration boost of HA alone was all gone and back to the basal level.
To further evaluate the well-ageing and mattifying benefits of Cristalhyal® e-Perfection, we conducted a clinical test in double blind versus placebo. In this study, 39 women between 35 and 55 years old were selected for their dry skin on cheeks and fine lines on the crow’s feet area. ColorFace® technology was used to evaluate skin smoothing and mattifying benefits: on day one, after a single application (after one and six hours), and then again after 28 days of treatment. Both day one tests show Cristalhyal® e-Perfection to have significantly improved skin appearance. Fine lines are reduced by down to -21.5% vs T0 (after one hour) and -17.4% vs placebo (after six hours), while skin brightness is decreased by down to -27.4% vs T0 and -11.0% vs placebo.
Are benefits still performing as well on day 28?
The day 28 tests show Cristalhyal® e-Perfection to have significantly improved skin appearance with prolonged use. Fine lines are reduced by down to -27.3% versus D0, and -22.7% versus placebo, while skin brightness is decreased by down to -9.9% versus D0 and -10.2% compared to the placebo. Cristalhyal® e-Perfection is therefore set to become a valuable anti-ageing skincare tool for both instant and long-term use. By combining HMW HA and clay, two ingredients recognised for their sensorial benefits, Cristalhyal® e-Perfection also improves the texture of finished products bringing softness to the formula through its satin touch.
Each launch by Givaudan Active Beauty has an extra edge. What is the one for Cristalhyal® e-Perfection?
Wellness is more important than ever as today, 84% of people think that using a skin care product can help them feel good. To demonstrate the wellness benefits of our creations on consumers, we leveraged the neuroscience technology VivaScentz™, developed by our Fragrances R&D team, on our latest vectorised hyaluronic acid, Cristalhyal® e-Perfection. Thanks to VivaScentz™, we proved that the breakthrough sensoriality of Cristalhyal® e-Perfection acts to enhance a sense of wellbeing among consumers: 78% of people who applied a cream containing this active experienced an increase in their overall wellbeing (+10 points versus placebo) and a significant increase of positive feelings!
We invite you to connect to our digital platform, UX-Beauty (https://uxbeauty.givaudan.com/en/product/95-cristalhyal-
e-perfection.html) to learn more about the ingredient and order some samples if needed.