Interview with Sébastien Hameury, Marketing Director at Greentech

Sébastien Hameury, Marketing Director

Greentech has been a leading supplier in active anti-aging ingredients. You are introducing a new approach to positive aging or Happy Aging. Can you tell us more about this concept? 

Developing efficient solution to limit the signs of skin aging is deeply rooted in GREENTECH history as one of the first active ingredient designed by our scientists was Flower Acids®, an active fraction from hibiscus flowers whose gentle specific organics acids promote skin renewal and regeneration. From that time on, the notion of well-being was present because the objective of this active ingredient was to ensure a regenerative exfoliation of the skin without having the undesirable effects of AHAs (irritation, burning sensation). Today more than ever, wellness is hot topic, permeating all goods and services industries. The global wellness market weighed 4.5 billion in 2018 and is expected to grow by 5-6% by 2023. Cosmetic industry is a major actor of this huge growing market, accounting for 25%. At the product level, it means communicating about healthy aging, being inclusive of people of Silver generation, valuing age. At the level of the active ingredients, the trend towards wellness is reflected in the evaluation of skin benefits but also benefits on the psychological and emotional sphere, to support beauty brands in this new communication.

How do the studies on GREENTECH active ingredients such as HEBELYS® support this?

Psychobiology is a science that postulates that psychic phenomena, such as emotions or stress, interact with biological responses and body functions. GREENTECH R&D has been a pioneer in the design of active ingredients based on a psychobiological approach since many years, starting with the launch of HEBELYS® in 2018. This potent ferment of an extremophilic microorganism, obtained by an optimized fermentation process, was assessed in vitro on a 3D reconstructed skin model and in vivo on a panel of women of the Silver generation, aged 60-70. In vitro, HEBELYS® tackles the root of skin aging by limiting oxidative stress and modulating skin senescence pathways (p21/p16) leading to the formation senescent “zombie” cells. At clinical level, HEBELYS® offers a holistic care of mature skin, by acting on 4 physical impacts of aging (wrinkles, dull & uneven skin tone, coarse skin texture and saggy skin) and on 2 cognitive impacts (uplifts self-esteem and mood state). For the latter result, GREENTECH scientists assessed the psychological benefits of the treatment with HEBELYS® through scientifically-recognized psychometric tests: the Rosenberg self-esteem scale (Rosenberg, 1965) and the Profile of Mood State (Mc Nair and Droppleman, 1971). This psychological approach allowed us to provide substantiation. This scientifically-validated approach has enabled us to provide reliable evidence of psychological benefits offered by the application of a cosmetic product containing HEBELYS® that we promote as a “Skin & Mood Uplifter”.

You have received several awards for your ingredients already this year. Can you share more?

This original and pioneering scientific approach in cosmetics, used for the design of different active ingredients, was widely rewarded this year. In April 2022, CIRCALYS® was rewarded by a BSB Award in the category “Natural Products/Raw Materials; Actives: Anti-stress, mood enhancing, mood enhancing and joy ». Launched last year, CIRCALYS® is a chrono-detox active ingredient titrated in andrographolide, sourced from green chiretta (Andrographis paniculata, major ayurvedic detoxifying plant), designed to efficiently reduce the impacts on skin and mood (yoga-like effect) of fatigue induced by modern off-beat life. Then, HEBELYS® received this summer a Ringier Technology Innovation Award, which is one of the most professional and influential industry awards in China.

Finally, all the GREENTECH teams were proud to learn this summer that their 2022 innovation, MYRALYS, was awarded at the In-Cosmetics Korea. MYRALYS is a COSMOS-certified active ingredient highly titrated in gentiopicroside, purified from organic wild yellow gentian roots (sustainably harvested in France). It provides a comprehensive eye care, with visible results in just 14 days: lifting effect on the upper eyelids, anti-dark circles/eye bags effect and smoothing effect on the tear trough. MYRALYS perfectly illustrates GREENTECH’s 30 years of expertise in phytochemistry, green extraction and bio-guided fractionation and the implementation of sustainable and ethical sourcing. 

What are some of the next events that you will present your research? 

We have just participated to the IFSCC 32nd Congress 2022 in London, sharing our scientific results about the gentiopicroside-rich fraction extracted and purified from Gentiana lutea roots composing MYRALYS. GREENTECH R&D was delighted to have been admitted to a podium presentation at this renowed congress. Then, our teams will be present at all the key conferences and trade shows in the second half of the year to share the latest results on our active ingredients.

Finally, the 3rd-4th of November, the 8th edition of the Skin Physiology International Meeting (SPIM) organized by the GREENTECH Foundation will be held at Vichy, France. The SPIM is a unique scientific congress at the crossroads of research excellence and international conviviality. Putting latest research work and discoveries on skin physiology at its center, the event aims at sharing and mixing thoughts, views and investigation methods between various disciplines without dogmatic position. It involves experts from all specialisations (physiologists, biochemists, dermatologists and pharmacologists) and all countrie, and encourages cross-collaboration to push further scientific understanding of skin physiology and metabolic interactions, for both healthy and disorder skin states. Designed in collaboration with a scientific committee gathering renowned scientists and physicians with large experience in the area of skin physiology, dermatology and cosmetology, the SPIM is must-attend scientific event (click here to see the full program and to register).


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