Fermentation, the Answer for Sustainable Cosmetics

Interview with Elena Cañadas, Global Marketing Director
Lubrizol Life Science Beauty

Why do you think fermentation is becoming so popular in cosmetics? 

Fermented ingredients are increasingly being recognized by the consumers and fermented beauty is one of the top eight K-Beauty trends of the year according to Lifestyle Asia July edition.  

Foresee Lab TM, within Lubrizol Life Science, spotted that fermented ingredients are a small but stable trend at 3.7% penetration on social media, which grew the most between 2020 and 2021, according to WGSN Trend Curve. 

Originating in the heritage of fermentation in the APAC market, increasing knowledge of the impact of fermented ingredients on the skin is accelerating its adoption around the globe. Brands are turning to fermented ingredients as they work in harmony with the skin. Besides, the market is starting to create a process-focused narrative that connects the natural process of fermentation with the science-backed benefits this technology provides.

Along with the beauty benefits, the sustainable benefits of fermented ingredients are slowly emerging in conversations. Consumers start recognizing these natural and biodegradable ingredients support sustainability by using clean technology, requiring lower land usage, and minimizing ingredient harvesting from nature.

Can you tell us more about your latest research in fermentation-derived cosmetics?

At Lubrizol Life Science we have long used fermentation to produce active cosmetic ingredients. We could say that fermentation is natural chemistry, where the biochemical machinery of microorganisms is used to produce molecules of interest. 

In our active ingredients, we use fermentation of native microorganisms isolated from exotic environments taking advantage of the metabolic potential they developed to adapt and thrive in specific environmental niches.  For example, the Bacillus species isolated from the Florida Keys for Telophi™ biotech ingredient, launched earlier this year, produces a large number of bioactive compounds with a broad range of activities that provide protection against coral pathogens helping to maintain the health and harmony of the coral reef ecosystem.  It confers similar benefits to restore emotional and facial harmony in our new ingredient.  In vivo studies revealed a global improvement in the facial contour, firmness, and luminosity, as well as the symmetry of these features when the ingredient is applied to the skin. 

We also use fermentation in our functional ingredients, where it is a path enabling alternatives to petrochemical sources for the creation of more natural and sustainable ingredients. One of the latest examples here is AlgaPur™High Stability High Oleic algae oil - a bio-oil extracted through biotechnology from the sap of Chestnut trees from Germany with low carbon and water footprint as well as low land use impact. Containing over 90% of beneficial Omega-9 (oleic acid), it provides a silky but not greasy feel to replace typical vegetable or mineral oils in skin care formulations. It provides numerous benefits for both skin and hair care applications, such as skin hydration, protection against UV and reduces the signs of aging as well as nourishes the hair follicle, rejuvenates the scalp, and protects color and fiber from UV rays.

Do you have examples for formulations for our readers?

Of course. We create several formulations when we develop a product to test the efficacy of the ingredient in different formats as well as to inspire our customers on the type of formulations they can develop using our products.

The Restoring Facial Mask, that contains Telophi™ biotech ingredient, helps to relax, release, and replenish the skin and create a blank canvas that is ready to be transformed into a work of beauty. And the Biphasic Hair Mist, with AlgaPur™ High Stability High Oleic algae oil, keeps the hair shiny, silky and in place all day; it provides softness and compatibility on dry hair, repairs split ends, controls frizz, gives emollience and helps to provide a pleasant sensorial. 

Both formulations have more than 90% of natural origin content.

Where can customers meet your teams in upcoming events (in-person and virtual)?

Our team will be attending various events till the end of the year, such as In-Cosmetics Latam, Cosmetorium, Sepawa, Making Cosmetics, SCS Formulate as well as In-Cosmetics Asia. We are also participating in the upcoming Formulation Summit as Silver sponsors and will be presenting there one of the previously mentioned products, the AlgaPur™ High Stability High Oleic algae oil. We hope to see everyone there and be able to speak in person!

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