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Bakuchiol in Focus: Innovations, Benefits and Market Trends in Skincare
Interview with Oliver Garnier, Sales Manager EMEA at Sytheon France and Jyle Cäcilie Garleff, Product Manager Personal Care & Cleaning at Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH
Sytheon France / Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH
Within the world of skincare, bakuchiol is gaining strong popularity as an efficient natural alternative to retinol. To learn more about the development, application and benefits of this ingredient, its role in sustainable cosmetic solutions and current market trends, we interviewed Oliver Garnier of Sytheon France and Jyle Garleff from Biesterfeld. Sytheon Ltd launched bakuchiol in 2007 under the trade name Sytenol® A. Sytheon Ltd is an innovative, research-based company dedicated to the development of high-performance personal care ingredients. Biesterfeld is one of the world’s leading distributors of plastics, rubber and specialty chemicals. Biesterfeld is Sytheon’s exclusive distributor in Benelux, Brazil, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia and Spain.
Find out how Bakuchiol is shaping the future of skincare.
What particular challenges have you overcome in the development and production of Sytenol® A (Bakuchiol) and how do your innovative technologies contribute to the quality and stability of the product?
SYTHEON France: The development of Sytenol® A (Bakuchiol) was associated with several challenges. These included ensuring a high quality of the phenol monoterpene molecule known as bakuchiol and the stability of the ingredient in different formulations. Bakuchiol is extracted and purified from a natural source. We had to conduct extensive research program to identify and develop the best methods to extract and purify the molecule, eliminating contaminants. Our pharma-based extraction technologies ensures 99% bakuchiol purity and strict quality controls to offer a safe and stable ingredient. Our persistent formulation lab work internally and in collaboration with our clients and partners contributes to our strong know-how to formulate stable and efficient finished products and satisfy our consumers worldwide. As an example, bakuchiol can have a tendency to change color in the presence of metal ions. This can easily be circumvent using chelating agents such as EDDS in the formulation.
What are the main benefits of Bakuchiol in skincare?
Biesterfeld: Bakuchiol offers a variety of benefits that make it a valuable addition to skin care. As a functional analogue to retinol, meaning delivering similar biological effects to retinol, it improves skin complexion, mitigating acne marks and pigmentation, increases skin hydration and reduces external sign of ageing. In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol is stable to light, heat and in formulation so it can be used in wide range of formulations (day cream, sun cream) and purposes (skin care, make-up care, scalp care). Finally, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol and therefore more suitable for sensitive skin.
In which cosmetic products is bakuchiol used and what advantages does it offer formulators?
Biesterfeld: Bakuchiol is often used in serums, creams and oils. Bakuchiol is a highly oil soluble ingredient easy to formulate both in oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions offering great flexibility to formulators from light to rich emulsions and oil formulas. These properties make it possible to develop products that are tailored to a wide range of skin needs. Bakuchiol is stable and combines well with other ingredients and actives. Bakuchiol has antioxidant properties, can stabilize retinol and prevent lipids peroxidation.
How does Bakuchiol contribute to sustainability in the cosmetics industry and what measures are being taken to reduce CO2 emissions?
SYTHEON France: Bakuchiol is from a natural source.
Sytenol® A is extracted and purified from a common wild plant in Asia and therefore renewable. Collection and supply of the plant provide complementary revenue to the farmers. Sytheon Ltd with its partners along the supply chain contribute to improve the welfare of these communities. We have programs with UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) and R3 (Carbon Imprint consultant) to conduct audit and develop action plans to advance sustainable practices, our ethical and environmental impacts, reduce our CO2 imprint. These measures are part of our commitment to ensure environmentally friendly and responsible production.
What scientific evidence is there for the effectiveness of bakuchiol and how is the market for this ingredient developing?
SYTHEON France: The effectiveness of Bakuchiol is well documented by extensive scientific research. Over 220 publications, 46 specifically on skin, confirm its benefits. Key publications with Sytenol® A show that bakuchiol has significant effects in skin care, first as a retinol functional analog, with ageing, hydration, acne and hyperpigmentation benefits; second as a regulator of cell fate and inflammatory pathways with skin repairing and soothing benefits. The market for natural ingredients is growing, Sytenol® A offers the must-needed safety and efficacy proof to answer the consumer high demand for performance.
What is the safety of Bakuchiol for all skin types, including sensitive skin and during pregnancy?
Biesterfeld: Sytenol® A, 99% pure bakuchiol, is extensively studied. Sytenol® A has full toxicological and eco-toxicological dossier. It is EU REACH and China CSAR registered. Clinical study on sensitive skin has shown its safety. The recommended dosage is between 0.1 and 2%. Although there are no specific tests for pregnant women, bakuchiol is generally considered safe. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting a specialist before use during pregnancy.
What myths about Bakuchiol would you like to clarify and what special properties should consumers be aware of?
SYTHEON France: A common myth is that bakuchiol is used exclusively for anti-ageing purposes. In fact, bakuchiol can also help with acne, hyperpigmentation and hydration. Another myth is that Bakuchiol has a structure similar to retinol; in fact, apart from both being soluble in oils, they have different chemical structure and function. However, our research has shown that, biologically, bakuchiol is a functionally analog to retinol, meaning bakuchiol provides similar physiological skin benefits as retinol.
How do you support your customers in the selection and implementation of bakuchiol in their formulations, and what market trends are you observing in relation to this ingredient?
Biesterfeld: As a distributor, we offer comprehensive support through technical advice and customized solutions for the integration of bakuchiol into formulations. We help our customers to identify the best application possibilities. We are currently seeing a growing trend towards natural, gentle but performing ingredients, which is increasing the demand for bakuchiol. Our future strategy therefore focuses on continuous research and development, hand in hand with our partner Sytheon Ltd, to further explore the application possibilities of bakuchiol and further improve skin care to meet the growing needs of the market.
