Blumilight™ Biofunctional, Advanced Cocoa Peptides to Defy Skin Photodamage by Ashland

Interview with Eloise Collet
Marketing Manager Europe – Biofunctionals, Ashland

What is blumilight™ and what are its main functions in cosmetic applications?

Inspired by traditional Mayan rituals of reconnection with the sky, blumilight™ biofunctional is a white cocoa extract providing an advanced solution to defy skin photodamage induced by UV and visible light. Blumilight™ can perfectly enhance active sun care, day care or hybrid makeup formulas to improve skin tone and prevent photodamage. 

What technologies were used to develop blumilight™?

Blumilight™ is obtained from a specific process of transformation of cocoa beans without fermentation, aiming to preserve cocoa proteins, and is powered by white biotechnology, i.e. a patented sequential enzymatic transformation allowing to release and fractionate cocoa peptides in a controlled manner. Ashland Research recently decided to explore its unique peptide profile, using proteomic and bioinformatics studies driven by AI. More than 60 peptides have been identified in the composition of blumilight™ and we have highlighted a specific sequence involved in the natural mechanisms of melanin balance in the skin.

Can you explain what biofunctional chemistry is and how it is used in product development?

Blumilight™ is a water-soluble cocoa extract rich in natural peptides. It is available in liquid form (INCI name: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract) and powder form (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract), it must be added in water phase below 40°C during formulation.

How does blumilight™ protect the skin from the harmful effects of blue light?

Blumilight™ can counteract photosensory stress induced by blue light on keratinocytes and melanocytes by acting on opsins, the skin's photosensitive receptors. With 10 years of research on skin sensory receptors, Ashland has now revealed with blumilight™ an original link between skin photoreceptors and the natural balance of melanogenesis. Additionally, Ashland scientists have also extended the studies to UV-induced damage, thus extending the scope of blumilight's protection against solar radiation beyond blue light. By addressing hyperpigmentation, as well as oxidative stress (mitochondrial and cellular ROS, protein carbonylation) and dermal damage (collagen I, fibrilin-1, elastin network), blumilight™ biofunctional offers a comprehensive solution for skin prone to photodamage induced by visible light and UV. 

Are there clinical studies or evidence of the effectiveness of blumilight™?

Blumilight™ had already clinically demonstrated an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and skin elasticity on Caucasian skin exposed to blue light. And today we are conducting two new clinical studies, one on African-American volunteers, the other on Asian volunteers, in order to demonstrate the protective effect against photodamage and in particular against pigmentation disorders. Keep an eye out, the results will be revealed at In Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam!

How sustainable is blumilight™ in terms of raw materials and manufacturing process?

Blumilight™ biofunctional is responsibly sourced from a Peruvian cooperative committed to biodiversity and providing social, agronomical, and financial support to local producers.

Blumilight™ is obtained from a very particular variety of Criollo Porcelana, also called “cacao blanco” that is easily recognized by the beautiful white color of its beans. This white cocoa is the most prized cocoa variety among chocolatiers for its finesse, but it is also the most fragile cultivar, growing exclusively in the northern region of Latin America. Ashland is proud to encourage the preservation of this heritage by supporting local Peruvian producers.

Thanks to the strong ties woven with our partners in Peru and a strong commitment to shared values, blumilight™ comes from the first sourcing of Peruvian cocoa certified Nagoya compliant and FairTrade.

In addition, its enzymatic transformation process is a patented white biotechnology that is entirely sustainable, thus allowing blumilight™ biofunctional to be Cosmos-validated, vegan, biodegradable* and Natrue-approved.

* according OECD 301D test

What does the future of biofunctional chemistry look like? What trends do you expect?

For Ashland, the future is already here, in the very heart of nature! Our Research & Innovation is committed to revealing the intrinsic power of plants, with original proprietary patented technologies such as:

  • the Zeta Fraction™ technology, which allows to concentrate a very specific fraction of phytocompounds, directly in the field from the fresh raw material.
  • PSR™ (Plant Small RNA) technology to extract small RNAs from plant cells, thus revealing all the biological power that lies at the heart of plant cells.
  • The Phytofermentology™, which harness the natural phytobiome of the plant to carry out a natural self-fermentation and produce unique bioactive compounds.

Nature already has all the biological efficiency we need, it is our challenge to know how to reveal it to make our skin enjoy the most powerful of its benefits.


https://Ashland.com/blumilight

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