Exploring the Evolution of Cosmetics in China with Mr. Li Huiliang

Interview with Mr Li Huiliang (Professor/Senior Engineer/Senior Scientist)
Chairman of PCHi's Cosmetics Science & Technology Innovation Committee (CSTIC) Chief Laboratory Technologist at Florasis

1. Reflecting on your long career, what have been some of the pivotal moments or breakthroughs that defined your path as one of China’s leading cosmetic experts?

I entered the cosmetics industry in the 1980s. At that time, the China's cosmetics industry was still in its infancy, with many aspects being imperfect and in the process of exploration. I was assigned to go to Japan to learn advanced cosmetic technology, scientific research management, and production management knowledge. This learning experience profoundly made me realize that the cosmetics industry is a field with a high level of scientific content, involving multidisciplinary knowledge, including human biology, dermatology, physiology, materials science, as well as safety evaluation and microbiological preservation challenges. At that time, these aspects were still lacking domestically, but this learning experience made me aware of the importance of systematic research. After returning to China, I worked hard to establish a complete research and development system in line with international standards in the process of cosmetic research and product development, which played a key role in my later career development.


Secondly, the development of the Liushen Floral Water (六神花露水) had a significant impact on me. This was an important practice after I learned advanced foreign technologies. The original intention of Liushen Floral Water was to solve summer skin problems, such as heat rash, swelling, itching, etc. Unlike traditional floral water, it not only has emotional value but also practical efficacy. I added various Chinese herbal ingredients, such as mint, borneol, and phellodendron, for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory purposes, and also included pearl hydrosol to increase skin moisturizing properties. The entire research and development process was very rigorous, including safety evaluation, irritation testing, and efficacy verification. These steps were considered pioneering in the Chinese cosmetics industry at that time. Although these concepts were not my original creation, I introduced them to China through learning and conducted a series of scientific experiments around product efficacy, which promoted the development of the domestic cosmetics industry.


These key events and breakthroughs shaped my career path as one of China's leading beauty experts.

2. How have you seen the cosmetics industry evolve over the past three decades, particularly in the integration of traditional Chinese medicinal herbs with modern science?

Over the past thirty years, I have witnessed the development journey of the cosmetics industry from scratch to a high level. In particular, the exploration of combining traditional Chinese herbal medicine with modern science has deeply inspired me.


I. The Integration of Tradition and Modernity


The development of the cosmetics industry is not just about the accumulation of scientific experiments; it also requires in-depth research into traditional prescriptions, extraction and compounding of Chinese herbs, and other aspects. These efforts have allowed me to continuously explore, learn, and make progress in my career. For instance, when developing the Herborist Tai Chi series of products, we not only focused on the efficacy of the products but also emphasized their emotional value. Cosmetics can change one's appearance and, through aspects such as appearance, sensory experience, and scent, bring about a pleasant emotional experience. Moreover, cosmetics have cultural attributes, especially the Tai Chi series, which integrates elements of traditional Chinese culture into product design, reflecting the combination of modern science and traditional culture through the contrast of yin and yang, black and white.


II. The Modern Application of Chinese Herbs


In terms of the application of Chinese herbs, we have experienced a transition from simple extraction to modern technological methods. Initially, we used traditional methods such as water extraction or alcohol extraction, but these methods produced relatively crude components that could not meet the quality requirements of modern cosmetics. Therefore, we introduced modern technologies such as ultrasonic extraction, carbon dioxide supercritical extraction, and molecular distillation to improve extraction efficiency and component purity. At the same time, we further optimized the effective components of Chinese herbs through fermentation, synthetic biology, and structural modification. For example, in the Tai Chi series, we utilized the carbon components of black rice for its powerful adsorption ability to cleanse the skin; and we used the moisturizing components of white clay to provide moisturizing effects for the skin. This "clean first, then moisturize" design concept not only reflects traditional wisdom but also meets the needs of modern consumers.


III. Reflections on Industry Development


From the 1980s to the present, I have witnessed the development of China's cosmetics industry. Western cosmetics began to develop rapidly in the mid-20th century and gradually influenced Eastern countries such as Japan and South Korea. China only began to start in the 1980s, but with the entry of Western cosmetics into the Chinese market, we deeply realized that cosmetics can not only improve appearance but also care for the skin, making it an industry that meets human needs for beauty and health. Cosmetics not only have commodity attributes but also cultural attributes, which can reflect an individual's value and taste in social activities.
While studying Western cosmetics culture, we are also exploring ancient Chinese herbal formulas. From "Shennong Ben Cao Jing (Shennong's Herbal)" to "Bencao Gangmu (Compendium of Materia Medica)" ancient literature records a large number of natural plants that can be used for beauty and skin care. However, due to the limitations of past technological levels, the extraction and application of these herbs were relatively crude. Modern cosmetics need to have good appearance, scent, and sensory experience, so we use modern technological means such as tissue culture and synthetic biology to extract and optimize the effective components of Chinese herbs. We not only remove impurities but also modify the structure to make the components of Chinese herbs more in line with the requirements of modern cosmetics.


IIV. Future Prospects


After nearly 40 years of experience in the industry, I deeply feel the potential for the development of the cosmetics industry. We will continue to explore the combination of traditional Chinese herbs and modern technology, through more advanced extraction and application technologies, organically combine traditional culture with modern needs, and promote China's cosmetics industry to a higher level.

3. As Chairman of PCHi’s Cosmetics Science & Technology Innovation Committee (CSTIC), how do you see the committee influencing industry developments and shaping future trends in cosmetic science?

As the chairman of CSTIC (Cosmetic Science and Technology Innovation Committee), I believe that the committee has a profound impact on the development of the industry and the shaping of future trends in cosmetic science. CSTIC is the earliest established technology platform in China's cosmetic industry, composed of top experts from the cosmetic industry and related fields. This platform not only covers cosmetic formulation research but also involves professional fields such as biological toxicology, materials science, and regulations, boasting numerous authoritative experts. These experts have a deep understanding and research on technical trends within the industry, market trends, commercial promotion, and the development of raw materials, playing a significant role. Currently, CSTIC is the highest level, most comprehensive in professional coverage, and the most authoritative platform in China's cosmetic industry. The scientists of the committee often express their views at technical forums, share scientific research results, and exchange with industry peers. They also provide insights into the current state and trends of industry development, promoting industry progress through various means. This driving force is of great value and significance to the industry.
Furthermore, CSTIC regularly organizes committee members and industry opinion leaders to carry out related research work, further promoting knowledge sharing and industry development.

4. Your groundbreaking work in formulating functional cosmetics using Chinese medicinal herbs has set a high benchmark. Can you explain how ancient herbal wisdom is integrated with modern cosmetic science to enhance product efficacy?

In the field of preparing functional cosmetics using traditional Chinese herbal plants, I am committed to combining traditional herbal knowledge with modern cosmetic technology to enhance the efficacy of the products. Here are some of my innovative practices and thoughts in this area:


1. Excavation and Application of Traditional Herbal Knowledge


As a cosmetic R&D professional with a background in Chinese herbal medicine, I deeply understand the value of traditional herbal knowledge. For instance, in the product development of brands such as Liushen and Herborist, we have delved into the records in ancient books. Although these books are mostly empirical descriptions, they document the effects of many Chinese herbs, such as which plants can solve what skin problems. This knowledge is not only based on the practical experience of the ancients but also embodies Eastern philosophical thoughts, emphasizing the synergistic effects of various herbal ingredients. For example, the ancient "sovereign-minister-assistant-courier" theory, through the combination of various ingredients, achieves an effect where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. This concept coincides with the modern cosmetic formulation design philosophy.


2. Empowerment by Modern Technology


The extraction and application of traditional herbal plants were once quite crude, typically involving simple methods such as water decoction, filtration, and decolorization, resulting in many impurities and low concentrations of active ingredients. The intervention of modern technology has greatly improved the utilization efficiency of herbal plants. For example, we can precisely extract the active ingredients from Chinese herbs, such as saponins from ginseng and polysaccharides from astragalus, through modern extraction techniques like supercritical extraction and molecular distillation. After purification, these ingredients are combined through modern formulation techniques to form cosmetic formulas with clear efficacy.


3. Verification through Interdisciplinary Integration


During the product development process, we rely not only on traditional herbal knowledge but also on modern scientific methods for verification. For example, using techniques such as cell biology, zebrafish models, and molecular biology, we conduct in-depth research on the synergistic effects of herbal ingredients. At the same time, we use cutting-edge technologies like skin biochips to scientifically evaluate the efficacy of the products. The integration of these interdisciplinary approaches not only ensures the safety of the products but also enhances their efficacy.


4. Embodiment of Overall Value


Through the combination of traditional herbal knowledge and modern technology, we not only retain the natural advantages of Chinese herbs but also enhance the efficacy of the products through scientific means. For instance, in whitening products, in addition to the main whitening ingredients, we also add moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory auxiliary ingredients to form a complete skincare system. This concept of "the whole being greater than the sum of its parts" is the core value of the integration of traditional herbal knowledge and modern technology.


In conclusion, combining traditional herbal knowledge with modern cosmetic technology not only enhances the efficacy and safety of the products but also injects new vitality into the cosmetic industry. This integration is based not only on respect for traditional wisdom but also on the empowerment of modern technology. In the future, we will continue to explore this integration model, promote the development of functional cosmetics, and provide consumers with higher quality products.

5. Could you share an example of a particular formulation or project that you consider a milestone in your research career, and what impact it has had on the industry?

In the course of my research career, there are two milestone formula or project examples that have had a profound impact on the industry.


I. Maxam Hand Cream


Maxam Hand Cream was the first specialized skincare product in the Chinese market and was pioneered by me. Its emergence is significant for the industry, marking a milestone that cosmetics, especially skincare products, and can be formulated according to the skin characteristics of different parts of the body to meet the functional needs of specific areas.
During the research and development process, we deeply studied the physiological and functional characteristics of hand skin, as well as the problems that hands may encounter in daily life. For example, hand skin often faces physical friction, chemical stimulation, and biological damage. Therefore, we designed the hand cream formula to have the following characteristics:


• Waterproof: After applying the hand cream on the hands, it is not easily washed away by water and can maintain its effectiveness for a long time.

• Protective film: The formula can form a flexible, moisturizing, and anti-friction protective film, reducing the stimulation encountered during hand activities and lowering the damage to hand skin from the external environment.


The success of Maxam Hand Cream not only promoted innovation in the field of Chinese cosmetics but also provided ideas and directions for subsequent skincare product development targeting specific areas.

II. Skincare Products for Kids

Another milestone project was the research and development of children's skincare products. At that time, the Chinese market was almost monopolized by Johnson & Johnson's children's skincare products. However, we found that Johnson & Johnson's products were developed based on the skin properties, environment, and ethnic characteristics of Western children, which differ from those of Chinese children.


To develop products more suitable for Chinese children, we collaborated with Beijing Children's Hospital, Shanghai Children's Medical Center, and relevant universities and institutions to conduct in-depth research on the skin characteristics of Eastern children. The research revealed significant differences in skin characteristics between Eastern and Western children, mainly due to differences in environment, lifestyle, parenting practices, and ethnicity.
 

Based on these research findings, we developed a series of skincare products specifically tailored for Chinese children. This project not only filled a gap in the domestic children's skincare market but also promoted the cosmetics industry's focus on personalized, regional, and localized needs. It emphasized that in product development, the specific needs of the target population must be fully considered to achieve more targeted product development.


The impact of these two projects on the industry has been profound. Maxam Hand Cream pioneered the niche market for Chinese cosmetics, while the development of children's skincare products has driven the industry's focus on personalized and regional needs. Together, they have prompted the cosmetics industry to pay more attention to the relevance and scientific nature of its products, providing valuable experience and direction for subsequent research and innovation.

6. Florasis is known for its innovative, high-quality products that honor Chinese cultural elements. How does your team approach innovation while ensuring that traditional values are preserved and celebrated?

In terms of R&D, systematic construction is of utmost importance. In 2020, we introduced our groundbreaking Eastern Beauty R&D System, a research and development system distinguished by its comprehensive range of categories, advanced technology, and distinctive Chinese characteristics.

This system can be described as having "five main beams and ten pillars." The "five main beams" refer to the five major research centers established by Florasis­—the Consumer Research Center, Cosmetic Science and Technology Innovation Center, Human Skin and Bioelectronics Research Center, Industrial Design and CMF Research and Development Center, and the Eastern Aesthetics and Space Innovation Center. The "ten pillars" represent Florasis' key research areas: skin, theory, materials, formulas, effects, equipment, standards, colors, materials, and craftsmanship. These areas include research on the skin texture and complexion of Eastern skin, the theoretical system of traditional Chinese medicine, Eastern raw materials, Eastern formulas, human efficacy evaluation systems, artificial intelligence and beauty instruments, Florasis standards, Eastern color systems, Eastern material systems, and Eastern characteristic craftsmanship.


On one hand, we continuously explore technological innovation, such as the integrated application of cutting-edge biomimetic materials technology and flower-nurturing technology in our products, which is quite rare in the industry. Moreover, we adhere to the R&D philosophy of "slow research, quick iteration," with products undergoing years of development and continuously collecting user suggestions and feedback to achieve rapid iterative optimization.


While investing in hard power, Florasis also places great importance on the research and exploration of soft power, integrating traditional Chinese culture and Eastern aesthetics into cosmetics, allowing us to form a differentiated positioning among many outstanding international beauty brands. It can be said that the combination of soft and hard research, and the Eastern system, is the hallmark of Florasis' R&D. It is this uniqueness and comprehensiveness that have made Florasis products continuously welcomed by consumers both at home and abroad.


This inspires us to recognize that with the vigorous development of Chinese brands today, we should focus not only on strengthening the "hard power" of technology but also on fostering the "soft power" of culture. The exploration of both hard and soft power drives the continuous growth of Chinese brands. By embracing this approach, Chinese brands can establish a strong presence on the global stage, showcase their quality and appeal, and share China's stories with the world.

7. In an era of increasing regulatory scrutiny worldwide, how does your team at Florasis ensure that innovation does not compromise safety or quality?

As a pioneer in exploring international markets within China's cosmetics industry, Florasis has consistently adhered to high-quality exports, leveraging mature and high-standard beauty markets to hone product and brand strength, dedicated to leading the way with quality and culture.

Florasis has successively opened physical stores in Tokyo, Osaka, Japan, and Paris, France, among other locations. By integrating technology, culture, and aesthetics, they have established a distinct positioning that has been embraced and recognized by overseas consumers.
To expand into global markets, a robust quality system is essential. In 2019, Florasis adopted an international cutting-edge quality management system and established its own corporate quality standard—the Florasis Standard. This standard references standards from China, the European Union, Japan, and the United States EWG, aligning with or even surpassing the best indicators among them. This reflects Florasis's long-term vision for international markets and serves as the foundation for the brand's deepening expansion into overseas markets.
In 2020, Florasis pioneered the "Eastern Beauty R&D System," integrating traditional Chinese culture with modern beauty technology, constructing a comprehensive research system from skin tone and texture to ingredients and raw materials, injecting core competitiveness into the brand's international development. 

Today, Florasis products are sold through the brand's independent website and e-commerce platforms to over 110 countries and regions worldwide, with the brand's social media followers exceeding 3.5 million in overseas markets. Looking ahead, Florasis will continue to strengthen its presence in countries and regions along the Belt and Road, steadily advancing on the path of high-quality global expansion for Chinese brands.

8. What advice would you offer to young scientists and researchers aspiring to make a mark in the field of cosmetic science, particularly in bridging traditional knowledge with modern research? 

For those young professionals aspiring to achieve success in the field of cosmetic science, especially in combining traditional knowledge with modern research, I would like to share the following pieces of advice:


1. Continuous Learning and Exploration
- Cosmetic science is a constantly evolving field, and there is no end to learning. While past experiences are important, learning and exploring new things and sciences is even more critical. As practitioners, we must maintain curiosity, continuously learn, and enhance our professional competence. Only in this way can we maintain competitiveness in a rapidly changing industry.
 

2. Slow Down and Deepen Your Expertise
- Cosmetic research and development require focus and patience. My experience tells me that a lifetime of dedication to one field, delving deeply, is the key to true achievement. In cosmetic science, being adept at combining the essence of traditional Chinese culture and Chinese herbal medicine with modern technology not only inherits ancient wisdom but also creates products with cultural connotations and modern technological advantages.


3 Insight into the Market and Independent Thinking
- As cosmetic scientists, we must have a keen insight into the market and consumer needs. At the same time, we need to possess the ability to think independently, to discern what is important, what is secondary, and what is a false proposition from complex information. Being good at thinking and analyzing allows us to find innovative directions among many possibilities.


4. Dare to Hypothesize and Practice
- Hypotheses are the starting point for exploration and innovation, reflecting imagination and logical reasoning. After proposing a hypothesis, it is more important to put it into practice. Only through experiments and practice can we verify the correctness of the hypothesis and promote the development of products and technology. Therefore, young professionals should not only be good at thinking but also brave in taking action.


5. Maintain Interest and Cross-Domain Thinking
- Interest in cosmetics is the foundation of success, but more importantly, interest in new things, even unrelated fields. Being able to connect knowledge and phenomena from different domains to form a fusion and innovative mindset is key to achieving breakthroughs. For example, combining seemingly unrelated Tai Chi culture with cosmetics to create a product line with cultural and efficacy values.


6. Maintain an Inclusive Attitude
- In academic research and product development, we must maintain an open and inclusive mindset. Actively listening to and absorbing different perspectives, through careful consideration and reflection, can help you understand issues more comprehensively and deeply, thus viewing innovation from a higher perspective. Sometimes, two seemingly unrelated things, after integration, may produce entirely new and valuable results.


7. The field of cosmetic science is full of opportunities and challenges. I hope that young professionals can maintain a thirst for knowledge, enthusiasm for innovation, and focus on their profession. Through continuous learning, independent thinking, practical exploration, and cross-domain integration, you will surely create more valuable products in the combination of tradition and modernity, contributing your strength to the development of the industry.

9. As someone who has significantly influenced both local brands like Liushen and Herborist and the broader industry, what legacy do you hope to leave, and how do you envision the future role of Chinese cosmetics on the global stage?

Throughout my career, I have always adhered to the principle of doing everything with utmost care and dedication. Whether it's developing products or any other work, I demand of myself to strive for excellence and give it my all. I do not take any chances or pursue short-term blockbuster effects, but firmly believe that only by making each product refined and exceptional can it stand out. Whether it's a blockbuster or a regular product, they should all be treated with the same standard, which is the only way to truly gain market recognition.
At the same time, I always put consumer needs first and maintain a humble attitude. Even when a product is already good, it should not be considered flawless. In the development process, we must continuously summarize experiences, identify shortcomings, and continuously improve in subsequent product development, striving to make each new product better and more refined than the last.
I hope to establish a high standard example for the industry through this relentless pursuit of quality, inspiring more practitioners to focus on consumers and put their hearts into making each product. I believe that this commitment to quality and respect for consumers can lay a solid foundation for the healthy development of the industry.


Regarding the future of Chinese cosmetics


Chinese cosmetics have a long way to go before they can reach the world stage. Although we have made significant progress in technology, and some products are gradually becoming popular among domestic consumers and beginning to enter the international market, we still have a gap compared to the top 500 cosmetics companies in the world. This gap is not only reflected in the technological aspect but also in cultural cognition and market acceptance. Eastern culture has a unique and profound charm, but it will take a long process to make global consumers, especially those in Western developed countries, accept the concept of beauty in Eastern culture. We need to continuously strive to combine Eastern aesthetics with modern technology, creating products that are both in line with Eastern aesthetics and globally appealing.
Moreover, cosmetics are closely related to lifestyle, and there are differences in how people from different regions understand and use cosmetics. Therefore, we need to continuously explore how to integrate the concept of Eastern beauty with the lifestyles of global consumers, making more people recognize the unique value of Eastern cosmetics. I believe that with the continuous advancement of technology and the continuous improvement of the Chinese cosmetics industry, with China's long history and cultural heritage, as well as unique materials and concepts, Chinese cosmetics will stand out on the global stage. We must not only innovate technically but also globally spread the charm of Eastern culture, making more people understand and accept the philosophy of Eastern beauty.


Looking ahead to the global cosmetics industry


The cosmetics industry is a vibrant and diverse field. Whether it's France, the UK, the US, Japan, South Korea, or Italy, each country's cosmetics have their unique style and advantages. This is an industry of a hundred flowers blooming, and with the continuous advancement of human scientific levels and globalization, the cosmetics industry will flourish with even more vitality. Chinese cosmetics will also shine with their own brilliance in this field of a hundred flowers. With a profound cultural heritage and a spirit of continuous innovation, Chinese cosmetics will become an indispensable part of the global market, offering global consumers more diverse and culturally meaningful choices.

Contact data:

Website: www.pchi-china.com/en

Email: pchi@reedsinopharm.com