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Interview with Mr Alain Saintrond, Scientific & Cosmetic Expert at The Innovation Company
Alain Saintrond
Scientific & Cosmetic Expert at The Innovation Company
How do you envision the future of cosmetics evolving in response to consumer demand for safer, more sustainable products?
Safer! And obviously performance that is clearly visual. Sustainability has nothing to do with making human skin look better and stay longer. Sustainability is no longer a narrative, just simply what today is described as so unreal verbiage; we call it simply wokism.
In what ways are technological innovations and new scientific research reshaping product development within the industry?
Well, simply by firstly testing the raw materials for simple bio-physics, as photostability, oxygen stability, allergens, Half-Life. What we call, pre-emptive Anti-Age Factor® testings.
With new sunscreen regulations coming into effect, what challenges and opportunities do you see emerging for product formulation and efficacy?
HDRS, double PMMA plate testing, and yes, a robot to coat the plates were just more UVR incompetence as is the US 2011 In vivo test method, where we measure only skin photo-type 2 & 3 and forget the other five.
The FDA has now asked to test on animals[1], organic UVRs that wish to be still used in the near future. That is really a step forward, as DSM-Firmenich has the right courage to carry a full MusT FDA test method, knowing is the time in a world that had a simple Narrative as: “It’s natural, and so it is good for you”. See above Pre-Emptive test methods show you simply that natural ages you, and well fast at that. What a sad nonsense the last 49 years have been for women consumers.
Silicones have long been a cornerstone in cosmetic formulations. What are the most promising substitutes currently under development, and how do they compare in terms of performance and consumer acceptance?
Since the 9th of September 1997, D-4 was banned in main cosmetics markets. That was over 28 years ago.
That cornerstone has seen many class actions put in Chapter 11 silicones producers in the USA. Anything that meets the above Pre-Emptive qualities is, of course, better than siKicones (we have called them like that since 1997) and, importantly safer than Echa declared as SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern). Simple half-life would have allowed us to avoid so many ill women (millions probably effectively).
But worse is coming as the reality behind Alzheimer/Parkinson is pointing to a probable new cause as very hydrophobic lipids as silicones and worse esters with very high plasticizing performance, notably on the bio-polymeric brain capillaries. New hyper powerful NMRs are analyzing these elements, and we can expect some medical publications, if not done yet.
Can you describe any challenges that formulators face when transitioning from silicones to alternative ingredients, and what breakthroughs are needed to overcome them?
Not really; they have been around with our substitutes since November 1997 and have since grown into over 150 substitute materials that have equivalent Tribology, Volatility, Stability to photons and Oxygen. Of course, we also have complete compatibility with all other C&T raw materials. And they have very, very short half-life values.
They know exist in Naturality ISO 16128 and Intuitive Materials® hybrids. Just as perfumes, this combination largely allows to enhance skin performances.
The traditional cosmetic narrative emphasizing “natural,” “cruelty-free,” “vegan,” and “clean” is evolving. What do you think has replaced this narrative, and what new claims or values are driving consumer trust today?
The new Narrative for all is simple: “Get real” and stop profound useless marketing nonsense for the skin! Testing is that simple road to effective formulas, not pseudo-placebo verbiage.
How can brands balance genuine product safety and sustainability with effective marketing messages in an era where traditional labels no longer carry the same weight?
Take out already placebo verbiage, sustain-nothing… Tested and safe and visualize it, Then Understand Why…. Or simply TUS knowledge.
How are companies leveraging innovation to meet both regulatory demands and consumer expectations without compromising product performance?
Well, they were skin ageing, so it should not be too difficult, if only they could carry out such basic Pre-Emptive tests on the raw materials…
What role do you see for transparency and scientific validation in building consumer trust in a market that is rapidly moving away from conventional ingredient narratives?
Transparency has nothing to do with making a product safer or good effective visual results. Just verbiage that is wokism. Trying to tell the marketer knows best for you. Never really.
What strategic advice would you give to emerging cosmetic brands trying to navigate this evolving regulatory landscape while maintaining a competitive edge?
Create a company where you can actually understand the essence of something or learn until you are ready. If not, do not bother; you have a better chance to win at the lottery!
How important is it for new entrants to invest in research on alternative ingredients, and what key factors should they consider when choosing substitutes for traditional ingredients like silicones?
Simply find the best partners; you really need them, as you are just simply incompetent. A typical lab to meet current knowledge is over 10 million euros with about 5/6 motivated staff with some past expertise. Imagine about 2000 square meters of labs clean air spaces.
Is it expensive? Yes, alas. Is it needed? Yes, of course, the lucky drunk days are over.
[1] BeautyMatter, The FDA Quietly Mandated Animal Testing for Sunscreen Ingredients. Why Is No One Talking About It?, 2025, URL : https://beautymatter.com/articles/us-fda-new-sunscreen-requirements-mandate-animal-testing.
https://theinnovationcompany.fr
Disclaimer: “The views and opinions expressed here are solely those of the interview spokesperson and do not necessarily reflect the positions, strategies or opinions of the editorial team. All information is provided without guarantee.”
