Unlock and Reveal the Power of Skin’s Chronobiology to Combat Cortisol Damage with Zenakine™

Interview with Hishda Mohamed,
Senior Marketing Lead | Insights and Innovation, Croda Beauty Actives

What is chronobiology?

Every organ of our body has its own internal biological clock, synchronised by the centralclock in the brain. Chronobiology is the science that studies biological rhythms and howthey influence our body's functions, including skin functions.

Why is it important in skin care?

The human skin follows a 24-hour circadian rhythm that influences different functions such as cell proliferation, repair and defence, regulated by clock genes such as CLOCK, BMAL, PER and CRY.

The expression of clock genes oscillates in a 24-hour cycle, peaking at different times ofthe day.

For instance, PER1 and PER2 expressions peak in the morning when barrier function isincreased allowing skin hydration and protection against external aggressors. CRY1 and CRY2 expressions, in contrary, peak at night when maximal cell repair mechanisms occurto ensure skin regeneration.

It is then important to maintain this rhythmicity to promote skin health and longevity.

However, lifestyle and life challenges can trigger the production of molecules such as cortisol that perturbates circadian rhythms, disrupting proper skin functions.

What is cortisol and how does it impact our skin and wellbeing?

Cortisol is a key messenger that helps regulate our body’s response to psychological and emotional challenges. It is beneficial for maintaining skin homeostasis during occasional stress. However, chronic stress leads to excessive cortisol accumulationthat disrupts circadian rhythm, weakens the skin barrier, and reduces collagen production resulting in skin fatigue, dryness and premature ageing.

What is Zenakine™ and how does it counteract cortisol damage?

Zenakine™ is a cutting-edge neuroactive ingredient designed to counteract the effects of stress on the skin and overall wellbeing. It works in sync with the skin’s natural biological rhythms, enhancing melatonin production to help improve sleep quality,elevating positive emotions and stimulating skin regeneration. After 1 month of use,Zenakine™ restores skin firmness by 13.3 % (p<0.05 vs placebo) and visibly smooths expression wrinkles.

Can you detail how the production of skin melatonin by Zenakine™ reduces the effects of cortisol in cells?

Melatonin is a powerful antioxidant molecule and a circadian rhythm regulator. The production by Zenakine™ of melatonin in the skin stimulates both the expression of longevity genes (longevigenes™) and circadian genes promoting an increase of NAD+/NADH levels in mitochondria, and the release of feel-good messengers such as dopamine and oxytocin.

This helps reinforce the dermal epidermal junction and skin barrier function enhancing the skin’s resistance to both physical and emotional stress.

How does Zenakine™ differentiate from other neuroactives on the market?

Zenakine™ is aligned with market demand in substantiated neurocosmetic benefits. Unlike other neuroactives, it is the first ingredient with clinical instrumental measures on sleep quality and duration benefits. Our clinical studies show that it increases sleep score by 11.3 % (p<0.01 vs T0) after only 14 days of use. The instrumental results were validated through a standardised evaluation questionnaire.

What are the recommended applications for Zenakine™?

Zenakine™ can be added in all skin and scalp care products. It is suitable for cold process, clear and colourless formulas.

Our formulation laboratory designed a kit of inspiring formulas to support cosmetic brands in their product development. This includes a harmonising beauty mist, an adaptive relaxing face serum and a timeless sleeping mask.

What claims could marketeers make by using Zenakine™ in their products?

By incorporating Zenakine™ in their formulations, cosmetic brands might be able to make neurocosmetic claims in accordance with cosmetic regulations. Zenakine™ alleviates cortisol damage into the skin to slow down premature ageing. By synchronising skin melatonin, it helps improve sleep quality, boost happiness, and promotes smoother, more hydrated, and resilient skin.

What are the main features of Zenakine™?

Zenakine™ is a 100 % natural-origin, water-soluble, and readily biodegradable postbiotic ingredient obtained by biofermentation. It is COSMOS, RSPO, and China compliant.

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