For the first time the SOFW Journal awards authors with the SOFW Journal Best Paper Award 2020.

An independent jury of specialists selected the 3 award winners from a total of 80 articles published during the period of November 2019 until October 2020.

“We want to foster, encourage and preserve the art of writing technical application oriented papers. Simultaneously it is a support in times like these where there are limited opportunities to meet clients face to face, to keep contact and to inform thoroughly of the latest developments. Last but not least we believe that reading technical literature deepens the understanding of the material.”, explains Robert Fischer, owner of SOFW Journal.

SOFW Journal congratulates all winners and we are looking forward to many new applications for 2021. Writing technical and applied science-oriented papers may be an effort, yet it is the basis of knowledge and business. 

The winner of the first prize is the article:

Revolutionary Hair Pigmentation Recovery

Authors:
Romain Reynaud, R&D Director; Mathias Fleury, Global Category Manager - Biotech. Actives; Daniel Auriol, Scientific Director Biotechnology & Fractionment; Amandine Scandolera, Ph. D, Head of biological evaluation; Mélanie Pélican, Communications Specialist; Morgane de Tollenaere, Skin Biology Scientist; Emilie Chapuis, Clinical Trial Manager

Givaudan Active Beauty

Abstract 

Darkenyl™ is a revolutionary and unique hair repigmenting active ingredient. It has been rationally designed to counteract the biological process of hair greying by combining two synergistic molecules: an optimised plant polyphenol (taxifolin glucoside), triggering the hair follicle stem cells to produce new melanocytes while protecting hair follicles from free radicals (ROS); and a soluble precursor of melanin synthesis (N-acetyl-tyrosine), boosting melanogenesis. 

Taxifolin glucoside is a unique stabilised polyphenol shown to reactivate hair bulge stem cells proliferation (+30%) and migration to help repopulating the hair matrix with new melanocytes. Its antioxidant properties enable to reduce free radical damages in hair follicles (-53%) and helps protecting existing melanocytes (+189%). Once the hair matrix has been repopulated with new melanocytes and that both new and existing melanocytes are protected from ROS, Darkenyl™ delivers its melanin synthesis precursor (N-acetyl tyrosine) to reactivate melanogenesis (+364%).

Darkenyl™ therefore features a mode of action inspired from stem cells, and delivers powerful consumer benefits: 3.4 times less white hair in 4 months than a placebo (down to -56% white hair). It is also independent of gender and hair-colour and it ensures a long-lasting efficacy.

As sun protection and sun care has been an ongoing emphasis in modern personal care, it is no surprise that the second prize has been won with this subject. The winner is the paper:

How to Overcome the New Challenges in Sun Care

Authors:
Myriam Sohn, Stanislaw Krus, Marcel Schnyder, Stephanie Acker, Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Sascha Pawlowski, Bernd Herzog

BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Rheinpromenade 1, 40789 Monheim am Rhein, Germany

Abstract

Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamte (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns about their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens´ developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises.

Last but definitely not least, the third prize comes from the field of home care. The winning topic is not necessarily new, but nevertheless still valid and up-to-date – maybe more than ever. The winning article of the third prize is:

60 Years Sinner Circle: The Future of Washing and Cleaning

Authors
Prof. Dr. Thomas Müller-Kirschbaum, Dipl.-Ing. Arnd Kessler, Dr. Arndt Scheidgen

Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Henkelstraße 67, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany

Abstract 

Since 1959, Sinner’s Circle has been describing the influence of chemistry, time, temperature and mechanics on the result of a washing or cleaning process in a qualitative way. With the recent opportunities of digitalization and design of experiment, these variables can now be refined and quantified. 

On top of the appliance and the detergent, the digital knowledge of performance as a function of these multiple variables plays an important role. This will enable consumers to tailor and finetune washing and cleaning performance to individual needs and scenarios. These scenarios enable hygienic cleanliness while using resources in an optimal way and ensuring the best level of sustainability.

>> Download Special Edition of SOFW Journal with awarded papers:

About SOFW Journal - Nearly 150 Years of Experience
The SOFW Journal has been published since 1874. It provides extensive information regarding formulation of cosmetics, body care, detergents, fragrances and chemical specialties.
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