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The eco-conscious beauty trend has boosted sustainability claims to new heights. Today’s consumers are becoming increasingly aware of their environmental footprint. Their attitude towards a sustainable way of living also impacts their lifestyle choices and the products they buy. Therefore, it is not surprising that skin care products with a biodegradability claim have increased by 400% in the EU since 2019, while skin care products with a natural origin/ingredient claim and COSMOS certification have increased by 100% [1].
Making the right skin care choices is in line with health trends and routines such as fitness, nutrition, and mental wellbeing. Consumers want products that are mild and friendly for their skin and skin microbiome. Cosmetic manufacturers face the challenge of developing products that deliver it all: strong performance as well as skin and sustainability benefits.
Natural-based emulsifiers
To support cosmetic manufacturers in creating high-performing, sustainable personal care products, BASF has launched its Emulgade® Verde line of natural-based emulsifiers.
The first two products in the line are Emulgade® Verde 10 MS and Emulgade® Verde 10 OL. Both are based on 100% renewable feedstocks and are both readily biodegradable and COSMOS approved. They are likewise suitable for vegan and cruelty-free formulations.
Emulgade® Verde 10 MS (INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate) is a mild, strong, robust, and flexible emulsifier manufactured in accordance with the Principles of Green Chemistry [2], including a solvent-free process. It can either be added to the oil or water phase and provides good stability in O/W creams and lotions. This emulsifier shows excellent compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients, including both synthetic and bio-based polymers. Additionally, it is possible to formulate emulsions with a high content of ethanol or electrolytes, and furthermore, a broad pH-range (pH 3 – pH 10) is tolerated. Emulgade® Verde 10 MS is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic formulations and textures, providing shear thinning behavior and supporting easy distribution on the skin.
Beautiful Face – Face Fluid
(Formulated according to the COSMOS standard for natural cosmetics)
SC-DE-22-KT-3497993-005
|
Phase |
Ingredients |
INCI |
% by weight |
Function |
|
A |
Water, demin. |
Aqua |
68.85 |
|
|
Glycerin |
Glycerin |
5.00 |
Humectant |
|
|
Calcium Chloride Dihydrate |
Calcium Chloride |
0.05 |
Complexing agent |
|
|
B |
Emulgade® Verde 10 MS |
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate |
2.00 |
Emulsifier (O/W) |
|
Lanette® O |
Cetearyl Alcohol |
1.00 |
Consistency agent |
|
|
Cutina® CP |
Cetyl Palmitate |
1.00 |
Consistency agent |
|
|
Cegesoft® SB 45 TR |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter |
1.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Myritol® 331 |
Cocoglycerides |
5.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Cetiol® C 5C |
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate |
9.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Verdessence® Alginate |
Algin |
0.50 |
Rheology modifier |
|
|
Verdessence® Xanthan |
Xanthan Gum |
0.50 |
Rheology modifier |
|
|
C |
Cetiol® Ultimate |
Undecane, Tridecane |
3.00 |
Emollient |
|
D |
Parfum |
0.30 |
Fragrance |
|
|
Hydagen® Aquaporin |
Glyceryl Glucoside, Glycerin |
1.50 |
Active ingredient |
|
|
Ciste'M® BC10023 |
Cistus Monspeliensis Extract, Maltodextrin |
0.10 |
Active ingredient |
|
|
Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol |
1.20 |
Preservative |
Specifications
|
pH value (23°C) |
5.0 |
|
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle 5; 10 rpm; 23°C) |
14000 mPa s |
Emulgade® Verde 10 OL (INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate) is a mild O/W emulsifier that can be used in cold manufacturing processes, thus enabling cost and time savings. It is manufactured in accordance with the Principles of Green Chemistry [2], including a solvent-free process. As well as being suitable for skin care, it can be used as a single-use emulsifier for different sun care application formats, including sprays. Furthermore, it can help to increase the natural origin content in a formulation that is gaining in importance in the sun care market. Emulgade® Verde 10 OL is compatible with a broad range of emollients and other commonly used cosmetic ingredients.
Light Touch Protection – Sun Care Mist LSF 50
UV-DE-23-LB-4354707-002
|
Phase |
Ingredients |
INCI |
% by weight |
Function |
|
A |
Emulgade® Verde 10 OL |
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate |
3.00 |
Emulsifier (O/W) |
|
Cetiol® B |
Dibutyl Adipate |
10.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Cetiol® CC |
Dicaprylyl Carbonate |
10.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Myritol® PGDC |
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate |
6.00 |
Emollient |
|
|
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin |
1.00 |
Preservative |
||
|
Uvinul® A Plus |
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate |
8.00 |
UV-A filter |
|
|
Uvinul® T 150 |
Ethylhexyl Triazone |
4.00 |
UV-B filter |
|
|
Tinosorb® S |
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine |
3.50 |
Broad spectrum UV filter |
|
|
B |
Water, demin. |
Aqua |
48.80 |
|
|
Hydrasensyl® Glucan Green |
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol |
3.00 |
Active ingredient |
|
|
Cellulose, Cellulose Gum |
1.00 |
Stabilizer |
||
|
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid |
1.70 |
UV-B filter |
||
|
Tromethamine |
q.s. |
pH adjustment |
Specifications
|
pH value (25°C) |
> 7.0 |
|
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-III+; spindle LV2; 20 rpm; 25°C) |
1200 - 1700 mPa s |
Excellent choice for mild and natural cosmetic designs
Both ingredients in the Emulgade® Verde line have been dermatologically tested at recommended use concentrations and their mildness confirmed. They are suitable for sensitive skin and microbiome-friendly concepts, as they are gentle to sensitive skin and help to maintain the natural balance of the microbial communities found on healthy skin. Furthermore, both were classified as being non-comedogenic in a four-week use test on facial skin.
Based on the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester technology, the Emulgade® Verde line is the perfect fit for natural-based and natural-label cosmetics without compromising on performance. This makes it an excellent choice for products serving the natural beauty trend.
[1] Source: Mintel GNPD
[2] 12 Principles of Green Chemistry (American Chemical Society):
https://www.acs.org/greenchemistry/principles/12-principles-of-green-chemistry.html
Authors:
Karine Kross Maita, Marketing Manager Skin Care Europe at BASF
Petra Schulte, Technical Manager Market Development Skin Care Europe at BASF
