With 71 % of consumers identify as having sensitive skin, desire has grown for gentle alternatives in skin cleansing. Influencing factors like pollution, mental stress, and urbanisation can negatively impact the skin, which can result in sensitivity. Consumers suffer from dry skin, redness, or breakouts, with worry that continued experience may lead to acute skin-conditions such as dermatitis.

When it comes to cleansing, consumers have increasingly moved towards products that do not contain Sodium Laureth / Lauryl Sulphate surfactants, which are considered to cause dryness more often than other milder surfactants like Sarcosinate or Taurate derivatives.

Biotechnology is at the frontier of cosmetic ingredient innovation to lead the transformation of the surfactant landscape, particularly in the form of bio fermentation and glycolipids.

Recently, Croda’s technical team launched an ultra-mild glycolipid biosurfactant, NatraFusion™ SL HA, which is perfect for incredibly mild cleansing. It boosts the mildness and cleansing performance of other surfactants when used in combination, without impacting foam production.

In general, sophorolipids, which represent a class of amphiphilic glycolipids, play an important role in cell membranes and contribute to the stability and integrity of an intact skin barrier. In cosmetic applications, their structure can reduce surface tension and promote the formation of micelles, which effectively remove dirt and oil from the skin. They can also bind water and therefore have moisturising and skin-caring properties to support sensitive skin and protect it from drying out.

In Croda’s case, the mild biosurfactant is produced through microbial cell cultures with the use of the yeast called Starmerella bombicola. Through specific culture conditions natural, renewable feedstocks metabolised and converted to the acid-rich, water-soluble NatraFusion™ SL HA that is suitable for use in a broad range of biodegradable, solvent-free cosmetic applications.

With reference to NatraFusion™ SL HA, several mildness, cleansing, and foaming measurements were performed.

Using a zein protein protocol that measures solubilisation from a surfactant system, the irritation potential on skin was simulated. This is based on the premise that the less zein protein is solubilised, the less irritant to the skin a surfactant system will be. Through the testing that Croda’s technical team undertook, they discovered synergistic ratios of surfactants to minimise zein protein solubilisation when combined with NatraFusion™ SL HA. For commonly used mild-surfactant, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, at 10% active solution, NatraFusion™ SL HA at just a 1% active inclusion level was needed to reduce zein protein solubilisation, with a recommended optimised active level of 10:3 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine: NatraFusion™ SL HA).

In addition to the synergistic, mildness-boosting capabilities of the ultra-mild biosurfactant there is no compromise on foaming performance. NatraFusion™ SL HA has no detrimental impact on foam, when incorporated into a surfactant blend. Making it a versatile ingredient for different cleansing formats, it also can be used as the sole surfactant with relatively low foam in comparison to other surfactants.

For consumers looking for gentle cleansing with optimised performance to deliver truly mild, low-irritation claims, there are opportunities, like NatraFusion™ SL HA, to navigate to more safety-conscious, high-performance cleansing systems.

More about the product

Croda GmbH
Herrenpfad-Sued 33
D-41334 Nettetal/Germany

Email: sophie.ruebel@croda.com
Website: www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb