The renowned in-cosmetics Formulation Summit will return to London from 19-20 November, offering R&D teams unparalleled, up-to-date intelligence into one of the biggest trends influencing the beauty industry: eco-conscious and health-conscious consumers.

Alongside opportunities to network with global industry professionals, a total of 25 sessions will explore the science, safety and regulatory challenges facing R&D teams when formulating for today's conscious consumers.

Kicking off the Formulation Summit, Vivienne Rudd, Director of Global Innovation and Insight, Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel will discuss the market trends and opportunities in the global beauty and personal care industry. Alongside an overview of the macro-trends, she will illustrate the Summit’s three themes – good for the body, good for the mind, and good for the planet – with relevant global consumer data and key industry examples.

Good for the body
The first day of the Summit will begin by addressing preservation challenges. Andrea Maltagliati, Market Manager for Personal Care at Roelmi HPC Srl, will put forward the question: is the preservation of microbiota friendly products a contradiction? He will explore the challenges with microbiota friendly ingredients and personal care preservatives, presenting exclusive experimental pieces of evidence. Concluding the morning, Andrea Mitarotonda, who is helping curate this year’s event, will explain how New preservation strategies: green and alternative preservation in formulations will help brands capitalise on consumer demand for clean beauty products.

Further discussing healthy formulation practices, Mojgan Moddaresi, Cosmetics Compliance Expert at Personal Care Regulatory Ltd., will debate safety and toxicological challenges using novel botanically sourced ingredients in “Healthy Formulation”: regulatory and toxicology points of view. She will touch upon regulatory challenges surrounding popular trends like ‘clean beauty’ and compliance based on EU regulation.

Marie Loden, Associate Professor at Uppsala University, will deliver a presentation on Formulating for healthy skin- protection and improvement of skin barrier function. In addition to sharing her thoughts on harsh surfactants and solvents, R&D professionals will learn how treatments with barrier-improving substances can reduce risks for irritation and delay relapse of eczema in patients suffering from atopic dermatitis.

Good for the body and the planet
Considering new trends for the future of cosmetic formulations, Paolo Camattari, will provide important trend analysis and demonstrate how companies can ensure their offer is balanced with consumer expectations in Less is more: a consumer-centric approach. Also tapping into this trend, Tijana Janjanin, Head of Operations at The Organic Pharmacy, will highlight the key ingredients for natural and organic waterless formulations and how this can positively affect sustainability in waterless cosmetics: what this means from a formulation and brand perspective.

‘Clean beauty’ has become a key buzzword as conscious consumerism gains momentum. In a talk on Clean Beauty – at the intersection of hype and science, Konstantinos Gardikis, Research and Development Director at APIVITA SA, will use his 40 years’ experience of clean beauty to answer questions such as: who sets the scientific standards for clean beauty, are ‘clean’ ingredients always safe; and how is the environmental impact assessed?

Two further sessions on day one will consider the efficacy challenges of green formulations. In a talk on the minimalistic approach to efficiency-centered formulation: perspectives and pitfalls, Philippe Papadimitriou, Scientific Director at Hormeta, will address the complexity of minimalism, what to consider when creating products for the conscious consumer, and how to avoid getting lost in simplistic, deceptive trends and principles.

This will be followed by Natural and organic formulations – how to deliver high efficacy, presented by Ian Taylor, Research Manager at Green People. He will give a brief history of the development of natural and organic cosmetics, as well as looking at some of the new actives coming onto the market.

With the US Virgin Islands, Hawaii, Mexico and Palau among the countries encouraging tourists to use reef-friendly lotions, Laura Busata, Cosmetics R&D Senior Specialist at Unifarco, will lead a topical session on how to formulate ocean and reef-friendly sun care formulation products. She will share evidence of the impact of sunscreens on the sea, and how R&D professionals can formulate ‘sea-friendly’ suncare products, whil preserving efficacy and safety.

Good for the planet
The second day of the Formulation Summit will see a series of talks on sustainable formulations practices, including Patricia Thomas, Director at Beyond GM, who will offer a thought-provoking session that aims to untangle the conflation of terms such as ‘green’, ‘natural’ and ‘sustainable’ in Lifting the green veil – does natural always mean sustainable?

With a focus on science-based metrics, Dr. Martijn Gipmans, Principal Consultant and Team Lead for the Chemical & Life Science Sectors at thinkstep AG, will discuss how tools and data can help integrate sustainability in cosmetics formulations, through compliance, supply chain risk as well as the ecological footprint of cosmetics ingredients.

Looking closer at greener practices, specifically for the ingredients world, Amit Tewari, Group Leader – Phytochemical Ingredient Science at L’Oréal Research & Innovation, will present case studies that demonstrate the phyo ingredient science behind an efficacious and safe cosmetic product in is phytochemistry, the “new” science for cosmetic actives?

Renewable polymers and clean synthetic approach will also be on the agenda when Steve Howdle, Professor of Chemistry at Nottingham University, reveals new research, before introducing the University’s novel polymeric materials from natural wastes that can be described as renewable and degradable.

Good for the mind
Delving into a relatively undiscovered industry topic, the Formulation Summit will, for the first time, consider the role emotions play in cosmetics and how this influences formulation practices. Dr Karl Lintner, President of KAL’IDEES, will present a talk on Emotional cosmetics: The impact of the concept for formulators, using new data to show formulators how they can have a better understanding of consumer preferences - the “unconscious” purchase criteria. He will also discuss the brain-skin connection by reviewing examples of this new approach of measuring emotions, and the specific benefits to consumers and brands.

Closing the Formulation Summit, John Jimenez, Senior Exploration Scientist at Belcorp, will reveal new and interesting advances in neuroscience and psychology that present opportunities for the industry in his talk, The psychology of neurocosmetics: how to measure the pleasure of cosmetics?

Dr Andrea Mitarotonda – the former Head of R&D at Neal’s Yard Remedies who is producing the programme for this year’s event – said: “It’s great to see a jam-packed programme of not only thought-provoking topics but also industry-leading speakers with a wealth of knowledge to share. Whether it’s for the individual or the environment, ‘clean beauty’ is the topic leading industry discussions at present, so this unrivalled opportunity for learning is one no forward-thinking beauty and personal care professional should miss.

Consumers are continuing to seek out products developed with ‘green formulations’ – those that have free from claims and are marketed as clean beauty. Homing in on these areas, the programme will address the science, safety and regulatory challenges around formulating personal care products for today's conscious consumer.”

R&D professionals in the personal care and beauty industry can book their places at this year’s in-cosmetics Formulation Summit here: https://summit.in-cosmetics.com/book-your-place. Early bird rate – saving delegates £100 – closes on 11 October.

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