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Formulation ID: # 100-10133C
Material ID: # 935722

Add some zest to your cleansing routine with this exfoliating yet nourishing, creamy scrub. Spread this delectable formulation over wet skin and then rinse for skin that looks radiant and feels soft, smooth and supple. Yellow, biodegradable encapsulates mimic lemon zest and change texture upon application to deliver exfoliating pumice.

PhaseIngredients (Trade Name)Ingredients (INCI)Supplier% w/w
A Purified Water Water/Aqua Local Qs. 100
EDTA Tetrasodium Salt Tetrasodium EDTA Local 0.05
optiphen™ Plus preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid Ashland 1.50
B flexiThix™ polymer PVP Ashland 2.00
C Glycerin Glycerin Local 5.00
n-hance™ HP40S guar  Hydroxypropyl Guar Ashland 0.80
D antaron™ V220F/ganex™ V-220F polymer VP/Eicosene Copolymer Ashland 2.00
ceraphyl™ 368 ester Ethylhexyl Palmitate Ashland 4.00
ceraphyl 847 ester Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate Ashland 5.00
Stearic Acid Stearic Acid Local 2.00
refined shea butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter  Ashland 1.50
Simulsol* 165 PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate Seppic 3.00
Montanov* 14 Myristyl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Glucoside Seppic 2.00
E Belsil* DM3096 Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol Wacker 2.00
F PF Fraicheur Kumbawa G11622914 Fragrance/Parfum (and) Citral (and) Geraniol (and) Limonene Robertet 0.40
Polylactic Acid Polylactic Acid Local 7.00
captivates™ GL 21920 encapsulate Water/Aqua (and) Pumice (and) Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Powder (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Agar (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) CI 77492 (Iron Oxides) (and) Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) CI 77019 (Mica) (and)CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum Ashland 5.00
Total       100.00


Procedure

  1. Add water into main vessel, add the rest of phase A one by one and mix between each addition
  2. Start heating to 75°C and sprinkle in phase B, mix until homogeneous
  3. In a side beaker, at RT, premix phase C ingredients
  4. At 60°C, add phase C into the main beaker and mix well. The gel should be homogeneous
  5. In a side beaker, heat phase D at 75°C
  6. At 75°C add phase D into the main vessel and homogenize well. The emulsion should be homogeneous
  7. Start cooling the batch
  8. At 50°C, add phase E and homogenize well
  9. At 30°C, add phase F ingredients one by one and mix well until homogeneous
  10. Stop at 25°C

Properties

  • description: white cream with yellow beads
  • pH: 5.0 – 5.5
  • viscosity (D0): 200 000 – 250 000 cps (Brookfield RVT | Spindle D | 5 RPM | 1 minute | 25°C)
  • This formula has passed 3-month accelerated lab stabilities and a 28-day challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level.

Claims

  • creamy exfoliating scrub that creates a lively yet nourishing experience
  • visual cues from biodegradable encapsulates mimic lemon zest and change texture to deliver pumice
  • unique thickener creates a fun, bouncy texture
  • skin conditioning ingredients leave skin feeling soft

Ingredients

  • flexithix™ polymer: patented thickener that provides a pleasant after-feel, requires no neutralization, and creates a bouncy texture
  • n-hance™ HP-40S guar: nonionic guar thickener with high level of lubricity that provides cushion and enhanced slip upon application
  • antaron™ V-220F/Ganex™ V-220F polymer: hydrophobic polymer that offers water resistance, long wear and film forming to create a protective barrier on the skin
  • refined shea butter, ceraphyl™ 847 and ceraphyl™ 368 esters combination of light and heavy esters to provide the right balance of playtime, smoothness and comfort
  • optiphen™ plus preservative: progressive preservative for all major markets with broad spectrum activity in slightly acidic personal care products
  • captivates GL 21920 encapsulate: yellow hydrogel beads that delivers pumice upon application for a scrubbing and visually appealing effect

Disclaimer

The information contained in this document and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. All statements, information and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee, an express warranty, or an implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which Ashland and its subsidiaries assume legal responsibility. A purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for purchaser’s use, the protection of the environment, and the health and safety of its employees and customers. We make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any product or formulation described in this document.

® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries.
™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries.
* Trademark owned by a third party.

© 2019, Ashland.

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