Formulation ID: # 200-10085 (contains escalol™ S UV filter)
Material ID: # 945254
¹ This product contains escalolS UV filter, which is not approved in the U.S. for sunscreen formulations
Innovative technology, this anhydrous gel is clear upon application on wet skin and provides a uniform film with a very high UV. This texture delivers a light and non-shiny finish on the skin. This sunscreen gel is achieved by gelling sunscreen filters and light Ceraphyl™ esters with FlexiThix™ polymer. The gel can be clear if it does not contain pearlescent ingredients.
Phase | Ingredients (Trade Name) | Ingredients (INCI) | Supplier | % w/w |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Escalol™ 587 UV filter | Ethylhexyl Salicylate | Ashland | 5.00 |
Escalol™ HMS UV filter | Homosalate | Ashland | 10.00 | |
Ceraphyl™ ICA ester | Isocetyl Alcohol | Ashland | 19.90 | |
Antaron™ ECo/Ganex™ ECo | Ethylcellulose | Ashland | 1.00 | |
B |
Ceraphyl™ SLK ester | Isodecyl Neopentanoate | Ashland | 2.00 |
X-Tend™ 226 ester | Phenethyl Benzoate | Ashland | 2.00 | |
Escalol™ 597 UV filter | Octocrylene | Ashland | 8.00 | |
Ceraphyl™ 31 ester | Lauryl Lactate | Ashland | 12.00 | |
Escalol™ S UV filter ¹ | Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | Ashland | 3.00 | |
Escalol™ 517 UV filter | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) | Ashland | 3.00 | |
ProLipid™ 141 lamellar gel | GlycerylStearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol | Ashland | 1.50 | |
C | FlexiThix™ polymer | PVP | Ashland | 3.60 |
D |
Neossance* Hemisqualane | C13-15 Alkane | Amyris | 8.00 |
Isododecane | Isododecane | local | 15.85 | |
Optiphen™ HD preservative booster | Hexanediol | Ashland | 3.00 | |
Optiphen™ preservative | Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol | Ashland | 0.50 | |
E | PF Sun Polynesie G11829346 | Fragrance/Parfum (and) Benzyl Salicylate (and) Citronellol (and) Geraniol (and) Limonene (and) Linalool | Robertet | 0.20 |
Xirona* Caribbean Blue | CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and) Mica (and) Silica (and) Tin Oxide | Merck | 0.20 | |
Unicert* green K7016J in Ceraphyl 230 @ 0,2% | Diisopropyl Adipate (and) CI 61565 (green 6) | Sensient | 1.25 | |
Total | 100.00 |
Procedure
- In the main beaker, combine ingredients of phase A. Mix and heat to 70°C until ethylcelluloseis fully dispersed and the gel is clear
- In a side beaker, combine phase B ingredients, mix and heat to 65°until powders and waxes are fully dissolved.
- Combine phases A and B in the main beaker at 65-70°C and mix until homogeneous
- Add Flexithixand homogenize until the gel is uniform and smooth while maintaining temperature at 65°C
- Turn heat off and let cool down
- At 40°C, add phase D ingredients and mix
- At 30°C, add phase E and mix until color is uniform
- Stop at 25°C
Properties
- description: clear green gel with blue/green sparkles
- pH: NA
- viscosity (D1): 25 000 –40 000 cps (Brookfield RVT | Spindle B | 5 RPM | 1 minute | 25°C)
- SPF in vitro: 50
- water resistance in vitro: 97.2%
This formula has passed 3-month accelerated lab stabilities and a 28-day challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level.
Claims
- kid-friendly anhydrous body oil/gel for glowing, nourished, and protected skin without residue
- applies clear on wet skin (HydroSheer™ sun care) and on different skin tones
- high water-resistance and broad-spectrum protection
- formulated without ethanol or silicone
Ingredients
- antaron™ ECoethylcellulose: nature-derived film former that provides water resistance without adding tack or viscosity
- flexiThix™ polymer: no-neutralization, patented thickener that provides a pleasant after-feel and viscosity, even in anhydrous systems
- x-tend™ 226 ester: efficient solubilizer for hard-to-solubilize UV filters
- cerapyl™ 31 and ICA,esters: light emollients that are compatible with FlexiThix™ polymer while enabling clear application on wet skin
- prolipid™ 141 lamellar gel: lessens the greasy feel of the UV filters
Disclaimer
The information contained in this document and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. All statements, information and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee, an express warranty, or an implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which Ashland and its subsidiaries assume legal responsibility. A purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for purchaser’s use, the protection of the environment, and the health and safety of its employees and customers. We make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any product or formulation described in this document.
® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries.
™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries.
* Trademark owned by a third party.
© 2019, Ashland.