Context

Taking care of our bodies and minds is essential for everyone, and even more so since consumers have been pursuing a quest for global fulfilment, cultivating a deep sense of accomplishment and personal development. To achieve this, they are adopting healthy lifestyles, slowing down their everyday pace and focusing on balanced eating, relaxing physical activity, restful sleep and an enriching social life.

Generations X and Y are particularly involved in this quest for fulfilment and resilience, because, when it comes to beauty, self-preservation and self-care are all about prolonging the skin's youthfulness so that it stays plump and radiant. For them, preserving their youth is part of the quest for 360° well-being, where physical appearance, mental health and irreproachable lifestyle habits are strongly interconnected.

The main objective of these generations is to prevent and protect their skin from the appearance of the first signs of ageing, rather than having to face them in the future. They are the pioneers of the prejuvenation concept.

And with good reason: from the age of 20, cell renewal naturally slows down, and the skin becomes more vulnerable to the damaging effects of extrinsic factors, poor lifestyle habits and over-exposure to UV rays. This vulnerability can accelerate the skin ageing process, which is why generations X and Y (aged 16-35) are already concerned about sagging skin.

These generations are therefore looking for multi-purpose preventive ingredients to integrate into a complete beauty routine, one that helps them pursue their prejuvenation objectives without conflicting with their lifestyle choices and wellness goals. They praise routines that make sense, particularly those based on the concept of cosmetofood, which allow them to take advantage of in & out skincare rituals.

Positioning

The acai berries are among the most valued superfood ingredients in such 360° wellness habits. These superfruits are rich in phenolic compounds, providing antioxidant and soothing properties, combined with sugars and minerals.

Phytessence™ Wassaï is the superfruit ingredient dedicated to fulfilled skins. From the acai berries, Phytessence™ Wassaï prevents skin ageing caused by the harmful effects of extrinsic factors by protecting the cellular mechanisms and the elastin fibres.

Composition and Characteristics

Phytessence™ Wassaï is an extract of acai berries, Euterpe oleracea, in glycerin.

• 100% naturally derived ingredient according to ISO 16128.
• Responsible and sustainable supply chain: fruit cultivated, harvested and transformed in French Guiana by our committed partner.
• Multistep extraction process, including zeodration (our unique drying process).
• COSMOS approved.
• Preservative-free.
• Quantified in total polyphenols.

Active molecules / related properties

Phenolic compounds        Antioxidant, soothing

Sugars                           Hydrating, vitalising

Minerals                         Remineralising

Sustainable and responsible sourcing of acai berries

Sourcing acai berries presents significant logistical and sustainability challenges due to the complex nature of the supply chain, environmental concerns, and market expectations. In line with our corporate social responsibility goals and principles, Croda has chosen to address these issues through sustainable management practices, from cultivation to shipping of the berries.

We have established a distinctive, long-term partnership with our acai berry supplier in French Guiana. With the support of ONF, the French Forestry Office, this partner employs eco-responsible agricultural methods such as agroforestry and natural forest management, ensuring that the acai is produced with minimal environmental impact on the rainforest ecosystem.

Our direct engagement with this local cooperative guarantees a secure supply, along with complete quality control, transparency, and traceability of our raw materials. It also ensures fair and regulated working conditions, a while valuing traditional knowledge.

Since it started in 2018, this partnership has facilitated the sharing of innovation and expertise, enabling us to continually improve the quality of our product while maintaining an equitable purchase price to ensure the cooperative's long-term future, sustainable forest management, as well as fair and safe working conditions.

A key achievement of this collaboration has been the installation of a zeodration unit on-site in French Guiana. This unique drying method, which converts 100 kg of fresh berries into 5 kg of powder, has allowed us to overcome the challenge of the berries' high perishability, while preserving their quality and beneficial active compounds for the skin. It also simplifies shipping and significantly reduces the product’s carbon footprint.

Efficacy Tests

Phytessence™ Wassaï is an active ingredient with proven efficacy: it helps to preserve the skin’s youthfulness:

• Tests 1 to 3: protection of cellular mechanisms to prevent skin ageing due to the harmful effects of extrinsic factors.
• Tests 4 and 5: protection of elastin fibres to help maintain skin elasticity.

Test 1 - Anti-radical effect

Determination of the protective and preventive effect of Phytessence Wassaï at 1.5% against ROS production compared to the control: (p<0.01)

• O₂ singlet (-24%) and DPPH (-59%)
• Normal human fibroblasts (NHDF) incubated with Phytessence Wassai for 24H, rinsing of cells and induction of stress by H₂O₂ (-70%)

Result: Phytessence Wassaï counters the formation of free radicals to protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Test 2 - Booster effect of ATP synthesis

Determination of the production of intracellular ATP by luminescence in human keratinocytes treated with Phytessence Wassaï at 1.5% or untreated (Control). (p<0.01)

Result: Phytessence Wassaï boosts ATP production by 18% to stimulate cell metabolism.

Test 3 - Anti-glycation protection

Determination of the ability of Phytessence Wassaï at 1.5% to protect proteins from glycation, measured by fluorescence spectroscopy and compared to the control. (p<0.01)

Result: Phytessence Wassaï reduces the glycation reaction by 88.5% to protect the skin from premature ageing.

Test 4 - Inhibition of elastase activity

Evaluation of Elastase activity in human fibroblasts incubated for 24H with Phytessence Wassaï at 1.5%, then exposed to UVA. (p<0.01)

Result: Phytessence Wassaï reduces elastase activity by 31%, helping to maintain skin elasticity.

Test 5 - Booster effect of elastin synthesis

Evaluation of elastin synthesis measured in human fibroblasts incubated for 7 days with Phytessence Wassaï at 0.3% without induction and compared to control. (p≤0.01)

Result: Phytessence Wassaï boosts elastin synthesis by 54%, helping to maintain skin elasticity.

Application suggestions

• Tinted protective cream
• Illuminating serum
• Defence Day Mist
• Firming Night Mask

Links for product information

Phytessence™ Wassaï on Croda Beauty’s digital Product Finder: https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/products/product/5834-phytessence_1_wassai

Product presentation page:
https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/resources/blog/phytessence-wassai

Video presentation of the sourcing of acai berries:
https://youtu.be/ZKssHuZI3po?si=15D0VigMB8blydWp

About Croda Beauty

Croda Beauty specialises in innovative science to enhance lives by creating sustainable beauty ingredients. We focus on high-performance formulations that address consumer needs while minimising environmental impact.

Founded in 1925, Croda Beauty blends technical expertise with a strong commitment to sustainability, striving to set new benchmarks in the beauty industry. We collaborate closely with customers to develop unique products and stay ahead of market trends, ensuring ongoing innovation and excellence.

For more details, visit www.crodabeauty.com