M. De Tollenaere, A. Durduret, E. Chapuis, J. Martinez, B. Sennelier-Portet, A. Scandolera, R. Reynaud
Givaudan Active Beauty has developed an ingredient derived from Persicaria tinctoria, a botanical species of the buckwheat family, with the purpose of replicating the positive effects of sunlight. This innovative extract is designed to promote well-being and stimulate tanning without the need for actual sun exposure. Its main focus is to address the mood changes that occur during seasonal transitions, particularly in winter, when there is limited sun exposure and lower levels of vitamin D3. Givaudan conducted extensive research using in vitro models of keratinocytes and melanocytes that were co-cultured and ex vivo models to evaluate the pro-pigmenting activity. â-endorphin and oxytocin were quantified in the culture medium of keratinocytes stimulated with the extract. Vitamin D3 production was measured after the grinding of skin explants treated for several days with Persicaria tinctoria extract.
Finally, clinical trials were conducted to demonstrate the extract’s ability to enhance mood and improve skin health. Corroborating the hypothesis that the extract can act as a “molecular sun”, the results demonstrated its ability to significantly increase melanin content up to +66% in skin explants in comparison with placebo cream. In keratinocytes stimulated with the extract, â-endorphins increased by +43% and oxytocin by +229%. Vitamin D3 production rose significantly to 86.5%. A positive effect on mood was confirmed in vivo in a panel of volunteers who fill specific questionnaires and said they observed a significant reduction of tiredness and an increase of affectionate mood state, leading to an overall improvement of low mood. In summary, Persicaria tinctoria extract offers myriad of sun-mimicking benefits including tanning activity, mood-enhancement and vitamin D3 stimulation. This can help address vitamin D deficiency and support overall skin and body health, particularly in regions and seasons with limited sunlight.
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