Journal Edition sofw journal 4-2020

Abstract

This research explores the hair conditioning benefits of ethyl macadamiate compared to commonly used low viscosity silicones. Ethyl macadamiate is a macadamia oil derived ester used in cosmetics and personal care products for its silky silicone-like after feel, oxidative stability, and dispersion abilities. It continues to be challenging to find botanically derived ingredients that provide the same efficacy and feel as silicones. Silicones are used in hair conditioning and treatment products to provide heat protection, reduce wet and dry comb force, and deliver shine without weighing down the hair during use. A series of ex vivo, vehicle-controlled studies were carried out to determine the performance benefits of incorporating ethyl macadamiate as compared to silicones into leave-in hair conditioners. The results show that ethyl macadamiate functioned similarly to or better than phenyl trimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, and was able to provide the following statistically significant benefits: reductions in wet and dry comb force and hair breakage, heat protection, increased shine, and increased consumer perception of smoothness / sleekness, shine, and softness. Ethyl macadamiate provides formulators with an effective natural silicone alternative.

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