Author R. Boutin, J.B. Guyon, C.Boutot, E. Ranouille, L. Poulet, J.Y. Berthon, E. Filaire
Journal Edition sofw journal 11-2020

Abstract

Hair greying is one of the phenotypic changes during ageing, cosmetic research focusing on preventing or limiting this process. The aim of this investigation was to evaluate 1) using an in vitro model, the effect of Picrorhiza scrophulariiflora roots (PsR) extract versus placebo on oxidative stress and melanogenesis pathway 2) using a clinical study, the efficacy of PsR extract to restore white / greyed hair to its natural color. Two parallel groups of 44 volunteers (29 females and 15 men) with 20% to 50% of white hair (Mean age: 49 years) either applied PsR extract 1% or placebo on hair and scalp twice a day during 154 days. Evaluation of PsR extract efficacy was analyzed after 77 days and 154 days by 1) a measure of the density (number·cm-2) of white hair 2) a self-assessment questionnaire. Self-esteem and emotion were investigated using the Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale and the Brief Mood Introspection Scale. In vitro results showed that PsR extract increases significantly melanin synthesis, enhances the expression of antioxidant genes and reduces oxidative stress. PsR extract treatment restores the natural hair color (measuring by grey hair density), increases significantly self-esteem and modulates emotional valence, by significantly decreasing unpleasant emotions.

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