Journal Edition sofw journal 3-2023


A new botanical extract was developed by Ashland to reduce dandruff formation. It is a natural and biodegradable product which contains sclareolide purified from clary sage flowers, a plant ancestrally used for its purifying and healing properties. A study performed by artificial intelligence pointed out a predictive link between the sclareolide molecule and the vitamin D3, known to play an important role in skin physiology as epidermal differentiation or microbial defenses. Based on these data, this botanical extract was investigated on scalp health improvement in order to decrease dandruff, a widespread uncomfortable scalp skin condition. In a first part, the efficacy of the clary sage extract was studied on yeast cultures, on structural markers of the epidermis and on vitamin D activation. In a second part, a clinical study was conducted on subjects affecting by dandruff and treated for 4 weeks with a leave on scalp formulation containing the botanical extract or a placebo. This study demonstrated the benefit of this new product on scalp health by reinforcing the skin barrier function and limiting the appearance of dandruff in association with activation of vitamin D3.

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