Author N. Reichmuth, P. Huber, R. Ott
Journal Edition sofw journal 12-2019

Abstract

Using the findings from previous sensory research projects on predictive models, the current paper analyses whether, and how, the functional properties of acrylates can be imitated in cosmetic emulsions using biopolymers. It could be established that at a suitable concentration, a combination of two natural substances produced using biotechnology – gellan gum and xanthan gum – can replace an acrylic acid polymers and deliver the desired sensory properties and in some cases also the stabilisation. By taking rheological measurements in oscillation mode, a correlation to the sensory attribute of body could be established via the storage modulus G' and the plateau value. The quick break attribute also proved useful in evaluating a polyacrylate imitation. The measurement data of the rheology spectrum helped to establish the biopolymer combinations that were most similar to the polyacrylate. An after-sun cream-gel formulation was used to demonstrate that even a trained panel of sensory experts could not establish any significant sensory difference between the acrylate and gellan gum formulations.

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