Navigating the Future of Personal Care with Sustainable Trends and Innovations

Interview with: Aurélien Tahon, Head of Application Development and Technical Product Management at IOI Oleo GmbH and Jyle Cäcilie Garleff, Product Manager Personal Care & Cleaning at Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH
IOI Oleo GmbH, Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH

A deep dive into SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S with Industry Leaders

The increasing demand for sustainable and customised cosmetic products is shaping the current landscape of the personal care industry. Together with Aurélien Tahon, Head of Application Development and Technical Product Management at IOI Oleo GmbH, and Jyle Cäcilie Garleff, Product Manager Personal Care & Cleaning at Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH, we take a closer look at the current challenges and opportunities in the industry. Topics such as sustainability, in particular the origin of raw materials and the efficient use of resources, take centre stage. Read how these developments are influencing the innovation of new products and what pioneering solutions are emerging from them.

Could you tell us something about what has been particularly on your mind recently? What topics are you currently working on? 

Jyle Cäcilie Garleff: One important trend that is becoming apparent is that consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the products they use. Topics such as sustainability, in particular the origin of raw materials and the efficient use of resources, are at the centre of this. Another focus is on trends such as self-care and travel-friendly cosmetics.

In this context, powder products and DIY cosmetics are key solutions to the challenges faced by consumers. These concepts allow users to customise their products and create personalised, sustainable options. These trends not only reflect consumers’ increased awareness of their product choices, but also provide answers to their growing demands and needs.

How do these developments affect the invention of new products?

Aurélien Tahon: The selection of the ingredients used is determined by numerous individual criteria. The decisive factor is that the raw material is convincing in terms of both performance and safety. At the same time, sustainability plays a decisive role. The focus is therefore on the demand for new raw materials that can fulfil these complex requirements. These changing requirements therefore have a significant influence on the innovation of new ingredients. They must be versatile, powerful, reliable and sustainable at the same time. One example of such a product is SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S.

Opening new frontiers for on-the-go or customized consumer experiences, SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S is a technological breakthrough, which instantaneously produces a fluid emulsion with the simple addition of water, without using specific equipment. It can be added pure to water, or to any kind of serum or emulsion, for further application benefits.

The great singularity of this technology is its versatility and flexibility. With this ingredient, almost any water phase, concentrated or not, rich in salt or actives or not, can transform into an instant emulsion, without the use of a specific equipment. SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S is therefore a valuable tool for both consumers and formulators, enabling them to effortlessly create instant formulas and unlocking limitless possibilities. It can for instance incorporate lipophilic ingredients into powder rinse-off systems or transform powder formulas into many playful sensorial emulsions. It can also be used as peeling / exfoliating particle in anhydrous systems, vanishing as lotion once transformed.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S always offers a fun transforming experience with a soft final touch.

What technical advancements and innovation has it brought to the cosmetic industry?

Aurélien Tahon: In the dynamic world of the cosmetics industry, the spirit of innovation has led to ground-breaking developments. One outstanding example is SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S, which won the Silver Award at the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2023 organised by in-cosmetics Asia. SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S is natural powder multifunctional ingredient. It offers emollient characteristics, soft skin after-feel, instant transforming properties, and even anti-wrinkle benefits.

It can be assimilated to a dry pre-emulsion waiting for its water phase. It is a synergistic system based on a triester of glycerol and caprylic acid encapsulated by a specific type of natural acacia senegal gum. With the addition of simple water, it is able alone to instantly create short term emulsions. It can be added to a basic serum-like water phase to create skin-tightening light lotions or even to emulsions to enhance final soft sensory. When mixed with intermediate powder formulas, it incorporates a powdery lipophilic phase delivering extra mildness.

Used in anhydrous oil-based concepts as an exfoliation particle, this microplastic-free powder vanishes into a soft lotion, before it reaches the drain.

This ingredient is so multifunctional, it can also be used alone 20% in water to create anti-wrinkle instant fix-up lotion. In 30 minutes, wrinkles depth diminishes by 14,1% (crow’s feet area), boosting any formula with its tightening benefits.

With regards to trends like Do-it-yourself-cosmetic or powder based formulations, how easy is the ingredient to formulate with? 

Aurélien Tahon: Formulas containing SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S always offer a fun transforming sensation and are soft-to-touch. 

The new technology behind the ingredient opens new horizons to cosmetic formulators. It allows them now to create powder-based formulations, which always transform into an emulsion, no matter how, when, or where.

The non-necessity for specific equipment means indeed that a formula can be realized anywhere, on-the-go or even in the palm of the hand, with just the addition of water. Incorporated to waterless surfactant powders, SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S brings a lipophilic phase contributing to a healthier skin barrier, protected by a soft film.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S can be incorporated from 5 to 50%, depending on leave-on or rinse-off formulation concepts. Easily soluble in water, it offers a quick transforming effect, fun and fascinating to consumers. Not soluble in oil, it can be used as peeling particle for anhydrous systems. It is compatible with most emulsifiers, powders (starches, gelling agents, thickening agents, surfactants, pigments, physical UV-filters like TiO2 or ZnO), fatty alcohols, waxes, standard and alternative preservative systems. It can also resist up to 10% of electrolytes (NaCl) and is tolerant to pH levels from 4,0 to 8,0.

To what extent have you noticed changes in market trends? What changes do you have to be prepared for in the industry? 

Jyle Cäcilie Garleff: We are seeing a clear shift towards social, ethical and ecological requirements. Customers increasingly value products that are not only efficient, but also fulfil the principles of sustainability. Against this backdrop, the increased consideration of ecological and social aspects is becoming a key challenge and opportunity for companies. Customers are asking for products that address precisely this change.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S perfectly bridges the gap between raw materials offering transforming cosmetic experiences and the desire for natural and vegan ingredients. Transforming concepts fascinate consumers because of the playful morphing sensory and changing textures they offer. The resulting emotions are even more powerful when this experience actively involves the final user in a “Do-It-Yourself” step.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S provides formulations with emollient benefits and instant tightening soft skin after-feel. This multifunctional ingredient offers fast results, even with anti-wrinkle effect. 

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S also cares about environmental challenges. It is a vegan 100% natural-based ingredient, with a calculated index of Natural Origin (NOI according to ISO 16128) of 1,0, made of completely renewable sources (Coconut and Acacia Senegal), approved Ecocert and Natrue. It allows to create waterless formulas in a cold process that require little to no energy or specific equipment.

Where do you personally see potential for innovation in your industry in the coming years?

Jyle Cäcilie Garleff: We see considerable potential for innovation in the personal care industry in the coming years, particularly in the key areas of sustainability, raw material origin and resource efficiency. At Biesterfeld, we focus on proactive and committed collaboration with our customers and partners.

Our strength lies not only in the supply of high-quality products, but also in our many years of experience in the industry and the resulting in-depth expertise. We support our customers with targeted technical application advice and offer comprehensive solution concepts. We also attach great importance to regular communication with our partners. This close dialogue enables us to understand the changing needs and challenges of our customers and translate them into customised solutions. This co-operative approach forms the basis for sustainable partnerships and contributes significantly to the success of all parties involved. 

Biesterfeld sees itself as a trailblazer, supporter and consultant. Our aim is to work with our partners to develop innovative solutions that not only fulfil current requirements, but also allow us to look to the future. With this holistic approach, we want to actively shape the future of the personal care industry and develop sustainable, customised solutions for our customers.


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