Nachhaltige Emollients: ein von der Natur und Emotionen inspiriertes Bekenntnis

Emollients sind unverzichtbare Bestandteile kosmetischer Formulierungen und verleihen den fertigen Produkten durch ihre technische Leistungsfähigkeit, Performance und sensorischen Anziehungskraft eine besondere Note. Auf dem Kosmetikmarkt gibt es eine Fülle von...

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Speaker: Dr. Fatima Eddoumy-Merletti

Company: Rossow

Title: Optimum Combination Systems to Promote Foaming Capacity, Cleansing Ability and Sensory Behaviors

Language: English

Abstract: Surfactants are must-have ingredients in personal and home care preparations. Today sulfate-derived surfactants, although controversial, are still used to maintain the properties required for foaming products. The reduction of the quantities of sulfate derivatives would be a major advantage. Regarding sulfate-free surfactants, limitations mainly highlighted are ineffective cleaning power and insufficient & unstable foam.


In our context of ecological awareness, the reductions in consumptions of surfactants (sulfate & sulfate-free) maintaining efficiency is highly desirable.
In this article, we examined the effect of an emulsifier POEM DL-100K (Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate) on different surfactant system. We studied the synergy of POEM DL-100K with known surfactants such as Sodium Coco Sulfate - SCS, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - SCI, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate - Diapon K-SF Powder & Sodium Taurine Cocoyl Methyl Taurate – Diapon K-SG.


POEM DL-100K consisting of short molecule with a hydrophilic head and lipophilic chains having HLB value of 9.4. The optimum combination systems (surfactant &POEM DL-100K) are highlighted in this study to promote benefits such as foaming capacity (volume, texture, water release and lasting), cleansing ability and sensory behaviors. POEM DL-100K provides both a lipid-replenishing & smoothing effect and enhances the qualities of the foaming systems: denser, creamier and more stable foam with a comfort and softness feeling. POEM DL-100K is designed for uses in rinse-off & cleansing products in cold-process and allows reducing the concentration of surfactants. These findings suggest that POEM DL-100K is potentially a new approach for conciliate consumer’s satisfaction and environmental impact for personal & home care.

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