SEPAWA® CONGRESS 2022 

Speaker: Roula Mahbouba

Company: CellMark

Title: My Perfume is 100% Natural. But What Does That Mean? What Exactly Does It Contain?

Abstract: In this context of awareness as humans and industrials of our impact on the environment and the future. With a growing motivation to act and consume more responsibly, natural and sustainable products appear in cosmetics as the solution. How is the ingredient INCI ‘Fragrance’ being classified in this situation? The fragrance is a highly regulated ingredient, and however, it remains obscure to the end consumer and the cosmetic formulator, the intermediate user of this component. Various labels help the formulator in his choices, such as Natrue, Cosmos, ISO, and Organics. At the same time, using perfumes composed exclusively of natural materials has advantages for the environment, well-being, and marketing. However, formulating with natural compositions has technical limitations due to the variation in natural materials, which need to be considered to continue to provide creams that meet current requirements (innovation, stability, preservation, odor, etc.). As part of the launch of a line of fragrances certified by the Cosmos label for use in cosmetic preparations, CellMark France laboratories have initiated a research program to propose a line of 100% natural fragrances that are stable in cosmetic forms. We want to present the first results and introduce CellMark to this segment as part of this study. We propose to make an overview to define what is a natural perfume in relation to the labels and natural cosmetic norms in force such as Natrue, Cosmos, ISO, and Organic; to present the advantages and limitations of the use of natural perfumes in cosmetic products such as stability, persistence, fidelity, regarding the cosmetic formulation and regulatory stability criteria; and finally to present a selection of 100% natural perfumes that show perfect stability in the formula and to analyse their composition.