Speaker: Aurélien Tahon

Company: IOI Oleo GmbH

Title: Cold-Processable Transforming Ingredient Allowing Simple Powder-to-Emulsion on-the-go Formulas with Soft After-Feel

Language: German

Abstract:

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S is a natural multifunctional powder ingredient with instant emulsifying properties.

This synergistic system is based on an innovative process involving a triester of glycerol and caprylic acid (Tricaprylin) with a gum of Acacia Senegal. Its unique properties allow the development of creative sustainable base-formulas transforming powders into sensorial finished products, for both leave-on and rinse-off concepts. SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S therefore perfectly bridges the empty gap between desire for natural vegan cosmetics and technologies offering playful transforming experiences.

Based on a specific production process where droplets of Tricaprylin emollient are wrapped into a polymeric structure or Acacia Senegal Gum, it is able to evolve once water is re-introduced to the system during the final formulation step at home or in a laboratory. Oil droplets are then released and stabilized by the solubilized Acacia Senegal gum forming a polymeric network. The main characteristics can even be instantly experienced alone in water, without the use of specific equipment. Indeed, it simply works with homogenizer or stirrer, kitchen blender, milk foamer as well as simple shake of the powder into an emulsion.

This ingredient is broadly compatible with oils, powders (such as starches, gelling agents, pigments) preservatives and a large application pH range, with a flexibility to both hot and cold processes. In addition, sensory and viscosity can be adapted by using common cosmetic ingredients.

Moreover, SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S provides not only emollient benefits and soft skin after-feel in leave-on concepts, but also a proven instant wrinkle reduction (crow’s feed). Rinse-off formulations benefit from an added softness and mildness, as the specialty allows the incorporation of a lipophilic ingredient (Tricaprylin) into e.g., powder rinse-off systems.

SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S therefore offers full freedom, unleashing creativity from simple DIY at-home consumers up to experienced R&D formulators.