Skin Microbiota Care: How to Prevent Skin Discomforts Respecting Skin Biodiversity
Interview with Mr. Andrea Maltagliati, Market Manager – Personal Care
ROELMI HPC AIMS TO ENHANCE HUMAN’S LIFE-QUALITY LINKING SCIENCE AND ENVIRONMENTAL PRESERVATION IN THE BEST WAY POSSIBLE. THIS IS YOUR COMPANY VISION. HOW IS SKIN CARE PART OF THIS PHILOSOPHY?
At ROELMI HPC, we aim for added values in creating a sustainable partnership with our customers. The development of high-technological and sustainable ingredients are here linked in the innovative attitude to help customers in transforming their needs into safe and performing formulas. We make tangible the magic in your dreams with a strict commitment in sustainable development.
A TERM YOU USE IN CONNECTION WITH MICROBIOTA PROTECTION IS “EXPOSOME”. WHAT DO YOU WANT TO EXPRESS WITH IT?
Skin is one of the largest body district, which the main function is to isolate and protect human body from the external environment. Acting as a strong barrier, it is capable of preventing water loss and avoiding the entry of foreign pathogens. All that is true, but incomplete!
In fact, the skin is the result of a complex ecosystem of microorganisms living in peaceful coexistence with the host, benefiting from the sheltered ecological niche and playing an active role in host defense. Skin microbiota is as important as delicate; what is essential to guarantee its vitality and activity is a state of health characterized by balance and equilibrium of the different species composing it, this reflects in what is commonly known as Microbiota Eubiosis.
Many environmental and host factors can alter the ecosystem of the skin, leading to dysbiosis alterations with resulting changes in skin conditions and consequent topical distresses. The term “Exposome” describes, in fact, the ensemble of all the exposures to which an individual is subjected in a lifetime.
WHAT AFFECTS THE SKIN AND CONSEQUENTLY LIFE QUALITY AVERSIVELY?
As mentioned above, we are exposed to phenomena that can daily damage skin ecosystem and this is the reason why more than 80% of skin aging condition is caused by EXPOSOME.
So, the following question is: how exposome can cause irreversible damages to our skin?
It is important to distinguish among factors that come from Solar exposure, chemicals and other markers that include the urban environment, such as pollution. UVB rays can lead to the formation of superficial damages such as erythema and sunburn while UVA rays are even more dangerous and can penetrate deeper into the skin inducing damages that can lead to skin spots formation. Another relevant factor related to the skin Exposome is Pollution. It is clearly demonstrated that heavy metals (Pb, As, Cd, Ni …) inside the polluted air, could alter our skin barrier making it more sensitive and more permeable causing all those related skin disorders as acne, atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin.
WHAT IS YOUR APPROACH TO PREVENT AND CONTRAST THE SKIN EXPOSOME?
At ROELMI HPC, we have developed science-based active ingredients aimed at counteracting and mitigating the negative effects of Skin Exposome involved in accelerating skin aging. Several approaches have been adopted in the research:
- To support the reparative processes of inflamed skin with Plerasan®Sun, able to prevent damages induced by UV rays exposure by stimulating and improving the natural immune defenses of fragile skin, by reducing the erythema of irritated and sensitive skin.
- To maintain skin barrier integrity with PhytoSerene, the extremely pure β-sitosterol that mimics the function of cholesterol, naturally present into the skin. Showing high compatibility with natural skin matrix, PhytoSerene is able to reduce the inflammatory processes and related skin redness and concurs to prevent skin damage against chemical stresses (i.e. aggressive cleansing products or environmental stresses).
- To restore skin ecosystem balance with ÆCtive®, the guardian for skin microbiota able to interact directly with the microenvironment around the skin microflora membrane, balancing and improving the correct water content inside and outside our commensal bacteria
YOU CALL ONE OF YOUR ACTIVES SKIN GUARDIAN. WHY AND WHAT IS IT?
Starting from its deep knowledge of probiotics, ROELMI HPC has developed different approaches to interact with localized microbiota. First, by investigating the effects of probiotics in nutraceutical applications exploring cutting-edge technologies for a new era of ingredients application on gut microbiota.
As a step forward, ROELMI HPC moved to a different market, from nutraceutical to cosmetics, designing specific ingredients for skin care applications. First by investigating whether cosmetic preservatives, which are known and used for their antimicrobial efficacy, could have any impact on the microbial population inhabiting our skin, then by developing dermobiotic ingredients aiming to rebalance the skin microbiota affected by external stresses.
Dermobiotics innovation is targeted to keep the perfect balance for the skin microbiota survival. By working on Microbiota research, ROELMI HPC developed the most outstanding ingredient to maintain eubiosis in order to achieve skin health.
ÆCtive® is a biotech active ingredient (a cyclic amino acid derivative with osmolytic properties) which concurs to avoid dysbiosis and related skin distresses demonstrating a proved efficacy rate in improving hydration, elasticity and sebum control as a unique result of skin microbiota care. By means of metagenomic tests, ÆCtive® has demonstrated the ability to re-establish the Eubiosis among different populations of microorganisms. An in-vivo test in extreme climatic conditions has been performed by enrolling volunteers living in Beijing (where the environment is heavily characterized by high pollution rate) and demonstrated that ÆCtive® is able to prevent microbiota dysbiosis, above all by countering the damage induced by pollution. Acting positively on the microbiota, it helps to counteract the damage induced by skin Exposome, improving skin complexion and preventing all potential correlated skin disorders.
CLEAN BEAUTY IS A KEY ISSUE IN THE MARKETING OF PRODUCTS. HOW DO YOU APPROACH THIS SUBJECT?
Thanks to the adoption of a new technological approach focused on ethics, sustainability and transparency. Our network of expertise permits us to bring specific solutions giving the possibility to customers to express all particular activities or needed target. On selected product lines, we applied our SAF-e-CACY® concept of excellence. Aimed at reaching maximal efficacy maintaining highest safety results, the concept includes a repetitive efficacy control on every production batch.
IN YOUR OPINION, HOW WILL THE PANDEMIC INFLUENCE THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY OVER THE NEXT YEARS?
The current period underlined the extreme need to pursue responsible actions towards civil society, environment and business. In light of that, ROELMI HPC has activated an adaptive model versus the contingencies of every day. The future awaits us with new challenges, considering the evolution of purchasing behavior from traditional to digital, the greater attention to multifunctional products that respect skin microbiota and growing attention to sustainability. Particular attention towards the so-called make-care (skin-care claims associated with make-up applications), and multi-functional products with innovative delivery system.
TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THE HISTORY OF ROELMI HPC
ROELMI HPC is the partner company committed to driving innovation in the Health & Personal Care markets. Expertise roots lie in the Mediterranean area, where the company still finds concepts and innovation-driven technologies. ROELMI HPC is focused on research, planning, development and production of functional and active ingredients. Our activities spring through cutting-edge technologies driven by innovation in green chemistry and are guided by the will of building high-performing models of circular economy. Our forefront formulations respect the principles of sustainability through the preservation of biodiversity and the use of renewable resources, following our corporate sustainable program: NIP®.