Patchoul’Up™: Upcycling Meets Well-being

Interview with Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager
Givaudan Active Beauty

Mr. Rolland, can you explain how Patchoul’Up™ answer to consumers commitments?
Dry scalp flakes are among the most common aesthetic concerns, caused by dry scalp without microbial infection, and are associated with scalp itching, irritation and discomfort. These small scalp particles fall on shoulders all day long like dusty snowflakes, creating a visible aesthetic trouble on clothes, which may ultimately impact people’s self-confidence and self-esteem. Treatments for oily dandruff, which is caused by a fungal infection on scalp, are inefficient against dry flakes; yet they make up most of the current market’s solutions against scalp flakes. Did you know that 85%[1]already experience once dry flakes in their life, and 40% mention dandruff and dry flakes as their main scalp issue? And it’s interesting to mention that consumers are more and more educated on that topic as, 44% of consumers experiencing dry flakes think that it is caused by unhealthy scalp microbiome. 

How does Patchoul’Up™ bring an answer to a scalp issue that is touching a huge part of consumers around the world?
Patchoul’Up™ is a new clean, sustainable, upcycled, Vegan, plant-based and scientifically-proven solution to prevent white dry flakes on consumers’ scalps affected by specific issues. It provides unique results in just 1 month, with demonstrated enhanced well-being and emotional benefits, making it a true ally in the age of feel-good cosmetics! 

Can you tell us more about Patchoul’Up™ mode of action?
Patchoul’Up™ contains specific botanical oligosaccharides and proteoglycans. These oligomers act on keratinocytes to reduce their excessive migration, while reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum (-35%), which contributes to decreased scalp over-exfoliation at the origin of dry flakes. Meanwhile, Patchoul’Up™ triggers skin barrier function through the boost of keratohyalin, filaggrin and caspase 14, and stimulates the Natural Moisturizing Factor up to +35%. 

Patchoul’Up™ also rebalances dry scalp sebum production by triggering a +39% significantly increase of lipids production by sebocytes. Two double blind studies versus placebo have shown that volunteers using a shampoo containing Patchoul’Up™ had +34% rebalanced sebum production and a -13% decrease of white flakes. For those using only a leave-on lotion, they had a -31% reduction of scalp dry flakes in one month. 

You also mention that Patchoul’Up™ demonstrates well-being benefits?
Indeed. 100% of the active group enjoyed an improvement of scalp quality. 87% felt a reduction of itching’s intensity and 93% saw no dry flakes on clothes. As dry scalp and flakes are commonly associated with a lack of well-being, two recognised neurosciences methods were used to evaluate evolution of the volunteers’ well-being. They revealed that Patchoul’Up™ significantly improves by over 9 fold their positive emotions while their negative feelings went over 3 times down.

The story behind Patchoul’Up is as impressive as its benefits. Can you tell us the story behind this cosmetic ingredient? 
Patchoul’Up™ is leveraging the power of plants by its clean extraction and by its 100% integrated, traceable and durable sourcing. Since 2013, Givaudan has had its own collection network for essential oil obtained from the distillation of patchouli leaves in the Island of Sulawesi (Indonesia) where hundreds of producers and local suppliers are involved in the production of patchouli oil for perfumery. There, over one thousand farmers have been trained in Good Agriculture and Good Distillation Practices, Household financing and Nutrition. This unique program, supported by local authorities, secures the supply of our patchouli in a sustainable way thanks to dedicated agronomists. An initiative that has brought Patchouli to the highest level of Sourcing4Good, our new end-to-end responsible sourcing program. Patchoul’Up™ has the holistic objective of enhancing consumers' well-being, preserving our planet and protecting our communities.

Each launch by Givaudan Active Beauty has an extra edge. What is the one for Patchoul’Up™?
To demonstrate the efficacy of our active ingredient, our team developed  S3D® Solid’hair, an inclusive shampoo bar to pamper hair and scalp. This beautifying solid shampoo enriched by a blend of ingredients (Patchoul'Up™, ResistHyal® powder, Naturein™ Wheat peptide and Bisabolife®) and a gentle oil (Apricot virgin oil) will delicately clean the scalp, protect and nourish the hair while providing an easy-to-style experience.

We invite you to connect to our digital platform, UX-Beauty to learn more about the ingredient and order some samples if needed.

[1] Global CMI Report – Patchoul’up – July 2021 Givaudan Active Beauty

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