Speaker: Dr. Henrik Petersen

Company: Schwan Cosmetics International GmbH

Co-Speaker: Dr. Stefan Friebel

Company: Fraunhofer Institute for Wood Research

Title: Towards Sustainable Cosmetics: Development of Biobased Film Formers for Color Cosmetics

Language: German

Abstract: Polymer dispersions are widely used in cosmetic products to improve the durability on the skin. These polymer dispersions consist mainly of polystyrene acrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers or polyurethanes, which have film-forming properties. Alternative film-forming agents based on renewable raw materials have so far been little or not at all available, or do not exhibit the properties of synthetic polymer dispersions.

As part of the „FIBIOKOS“ project, funded by BMEL through the Agency for Renewable Resources (Fachagentur für Nachwachsende Rohstoffe e.V.), the companies Schwan Cosmetics International, Worlée Chemie and the Fraunhofer Institute for Wood Research (WKI) have joined forces to develop novel film-forming polymer dispersions based on renewable raw materials for cosmetics. Worlée Chemie focused on the development of a cellulose-based film former and the Fraunhofer WKI used lignin as a renewable raw material source. Schwan Cosmetics developed make-up formulations with the prototypes and conducted application and stability tests.

Worlée Chemie investigated different synthesis routes for modified celluloses and showed that by cleaving a hydroxyethyl cellulose and subsequent synthesis with bio-based acrylates, a hybrid polymer could be created that resulted in high water resistance in eye liner formulations. An NOC of 85% could be achieved.

The WKI synthesized bio-based polyurethane dispersions with copolymerized lignin content. An NOC of 90 % could be achieved. The other biobased components originate from sugar production and vegetable oils. Furthermore, a lignin glycerol carbonate was developed, which could potentially be used as a natural dispersant for pigments.

Schwan Cosmetics was able to demonstrate in various formulations that these novel polymer dispersions are suitable for make-up products such as eye liners. Furthermore, application tests could show that the water resistance and the general wearing properties could be rated as very good. Stability tests with the formulations and compatibility tests with common raw materials were carried out.