The Microplastics Discussion and BASF Alternatives for Cosmetic Products

Helmut Gümbel, Senior Manager Regulatory & Product Stewardship Personal Care and Ute Griesbach, Senior Marketing Manager Personal Care Europe at BASF
BASF

What are microplastics and how do they relate to cosmetic products? 

Microplastics are, in essence, solid and water insoluble plastic particles maintaining a rigid shape when used or found in the environment, in particular in inland waters and the marine environment. Commonly, plastic particles with a particle size below 5 mm are called microplastics. Most microplastics detected in the environment are formed by gradual breakdown of plastic garbage from inappropriate waste management and are therefore called “secondary microplastics”. Other significant contributors to microplastics debris were identified to be road tire wear, incidental loss of plastic pellets in the plastics processing industry and the discharge of synthetic fibers by washing of clothes. Compared to all the sources mentioned, the use of microplastic particles in cosmetic products contributes only a very small share of less than 1 % to the overall microplastics debris in the environment. 

What is the current legal situation regarding microplastics in cosmetic products and what is the industry doing to implement it? 

For the time being, there are several national legislations that are mostly referring to ‘plastic microbeads’ used for exfoliating and cleansing purposes in rinse-off cosmetics. Due to a voluntary agreement of the European Cosmetics Industry, these microbeads have virtually already been phased out in Europe and substituted by natural abrasives. On EU level, there are no legislative restrictions yet. At the beginning of this year, however, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) published a restriction proposal for microplastics. The final decision on this new EU restriction is expected by the end of 2020. ECHA’s restriction proposal is based on the legal framework of REACH, even though the REACH regulation does not mention the terms ‘plastic’ or ‘microplastic’ at all. In order to build a link to the REACH regulation ECHA’s suggested definition of a microplastic particle makes at first reference to the umbrella term ‘polymer’ which comprises a whole class of substances under REACH but does not discriminate between plastic materials which maintain their rigid shape during use and disposal and – on the other hand – functional polymers which do not exist as solid, shaped particles in cosmetic products nor after their disposal.

This could potentially cause a ban of many functional polymers which are crucial components for achieving cosmetic effects such as hair setting and conditioning, the improvement of skin feel properties or the adjustment of the viscosity and texture of cosmetic formulations. It is necessary to take a differentiated look on their environmental properties instead of judging them all as microplastics.

BASF is involved in the consulting initiatives of various industry associations, aiming for a substantial improvement of ECHA’s restriction proposal in order to make it proportionate and feasible. 

How do you respond to the discussion around microplastics and what are the challenges? 

While concerns of consumers about non-biodegradable ingredients are rising, they do not want to compromise on performance and sensory benefits. At the same time “free-from” claims are becoming more and more popular, challenging manufacturers to find biodegradable and renewable-based alternatives that perform equal to traditional ingredients. We are constantly striving for innovative and more sustainable solutions to meet the needs of today’s environmentally conscious consumers and to live up to our responsibility as one of the largest producers of cosmetic ingredients. The environmental properties of personal care ingredients have been considered by the industry for more than 40 years and we diligently assess the relevant data for all our ingredients. However, there are still quite some functional polymeric ingredients on the market that are poorly degradable but are essential for cosmetic products and cannot be easily substituted. Many of them are eliminated from the waste water in a sewage treatment plant by either degradation or adsorption to the activated sludge. And even those that are only partly eliminated don’t pose a risk to the environment due to their typically low aquatic toxicity. Nevertheless, intense research work is being done in BASF to develop biodegradable alternatives to existing functional polymers which are only poorly degradable. 

Which alternatives do you offer?

Our broad portfolio of polymers already comprises a number of biodegradable alternatives. Last year we launched two new ingredients that are both wax-based and readily biodegradable. Euperlan® OP White, an opacifier dispersion for surfactant formulations, can be used instead of traditional opacifiers that are based on Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, and results in the same, pure white appearance in the final formulation. Its unique properties make it particularly suitable for eco-label compliant skin and hair cleansing formulations. Meanwhile, Cegesoft® Peel is

BASF’s alternative to plastic microbeads. It is mainly derived from renewable resources and its round wax beads provide a gentle and mild exfoliation with less risk of mechanical irritation to the skin than sharp-edged abrasives. Cegesoft® Peel meets the requirements of ecologically friendly personal care ingredients for rinse-off applications. 

Another eco-friendly example for rinse-off is our Dehyquart® Guar line of conditioning polymers, which show an advantageous biodegradability profile compared with other conditioning polymers and can be used as alternative to Polyquaternium-10. Rheocare® XGN is a purely vegan xanthan gum and our natural thickener alternative for rinse-off and leave-on applications. 

Polymers are, among others, used for sensory improvement which can alternatively also be achieved by the right choice of emollients. Our line of light emollients, originally developed as alternatives to volatile silicones, can be used in products ranging from skin care, color cosmetics and sun care, to hair care and antiperspirants to achieve the required sensory characteristics. For example, our readily biodegradable Cetiol® Ultimate (Undecane/Tridecane) is very close to cyclomethicone thanks to its volatility. Its performance has been proven in multiple application tests, including a liquid foundation where it enhances color stability and a sunscreen oil where it delivers UV filter stability.