The virtuous revolution for Hyaluronic Acid and the skin barrier

Since its beginnings, Givaudan Active Beauty has been committed to creating active cosmetic ingredients with respect for nature. Elevated through ecological processes, iconic molecules are re-designed and transformed to better suit a science-led, nature-conscious future.

For the first time in the beauty industry, Givaudan Active Beauty has achieved a ground-breaking leap in the sustainability of Hyaluronic Acid production with its creation of PrimalHyal™ 50 Life: the most sustainable low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid within Givaudan’s portfolio*.

Years of research have culminated in PrimalHyal™ 50 Life, a cornerstone in the sustainable development of the Hyaluronic Acid molecule. Leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation, Givaudan Active Beauty production methods have been revolutionised to become more environmentally friendly, achieving an outstanding -91% reduction in environmental impact*.

Thanks to this sustainable breakthrough in its process, PrimalHyal™ 50 Life comprises significant improvements across various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a Life Cycle Analysis*, boasting:

● - 92% greenhouse gas emissions*
● - 95% acidification and eutrophication of water*
● - 90% non-renewable energy usage*
● - 75% water consumption*

PrimalHyal™ 50 Life bestows a multitude of potent skincare benefits, including: ● Deep skin penetration, up to 120 μm

● Stimulation of tight junctions, preventing TEWL
● Boosted skin hydration for up to 72 hours post-application
● Reduction of skin roughness by -66% in 1 month
● Perceivable benefits in terms of skin texture, firmness, and hydration, as noted by volunteers

Romain Reynaud, Research & Development Director comments: "Thanks to the outstanding work of our scientists in strain engineering, we have totally reinvented the production method for low molecular weight HA. By directly obtaining the molecular weight of interest during the fermentation stage, we have drastically reduced our global footprint. This is a breakthrough achievement for the beauty industry as a whole."

For over three decades, researchers at Givaudan Active Beauty have been honing in on the process of bio-fermentation with an audacious ambition in mind: to boost the sustainability credentials of the Hyaluronic Acid molecule, as well as those of its production. Located in France’s Champagne region, the Givaudan Active Beauty Centre of Excellence builds upon its understanding of White Biotechnology to craft active cosmetic ingredients, a method which involves precision fermentation of micro-organisms, primarily harnessing local carbon sources such as sugar from wheat or beetroot, embracing a circular economy model within the context of a bio-refinery.

To learn more about the new ingredient, the team invites you to visit booth 122-123 during the Cosmet’agora trade exhibition in Paris (France) between 16–17 January 2024. Otherwise, connect to uxbeauty.givaudan.com, Givaudan Active Beauty’s digital platform dedicated to cosmetic ingredients.

* based on cradle-to-gate LCA carried out by an external firm in 2023 using specific Givaudan data. It follows the principles of the ISO 14 040 and 14 044 standards and the Environmental Footprint calculation method. Scope of analysis: A reference process route / Pathway with process optimisation